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A A2 rifle buffer weight is about 5.2Oz . A 9mm buffer is a wee bit more at about 5.5Oz

Therefore, if its not cycling properly with A2 , a 9mm will not be any better

What loads are you shooting ....115gr , 125 gr ?

Just to clarify, gun does not strip off another round and does NOT lock open ? or it does lock open on empty mag

Because if it does lock open, its not your load / buffer etc because bolt is travelling back far enough

It is a mag block adjustment generally that is the case. Depending on your mag block ( Hahn is the best BTW ) some are finicky on where they sit

I have had a RRA where if you didn't push it up as far as possible before tightening, it would not strip a round off reliably on some magazines

One of my lowers has Timiny 667 ( 3# ) it has not problems in my 9mm . Your 670 has even heavier hammer spring . No reason for light primer strikes due to trigger

Further to that, I shoot lots of 9Major ( over loaded 9mm that pushes 124gr @ over 1400 out of a pistol) that requires small RIFLE primers , which have harder cups. I never get light primer strikes with any of my lowers, all of which have less than 4 lb pull

I would check your firing pin protrusion . Only time I have seen this in ( no in AR ) is primers set too deep. Compare your reloads to some known working rounds
 
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Strange ....generally if bolt ( or bolt carrier in non 9mm ARs ) is moving back far enough to strip a round off , it should also strip around off top of mag

Eventhough the buffer weight is about the same, I would swap back to your carbine stock just for a test

Does it strip rounds off the magazine 100% when manually cycling ?
 
It's usually best to do one mod at a time, that way you know right away what works and what doesn't. I would start with removing the BAD lever first then test, then go back to the carbine buffer setup, I doubt it is your trigger since you are having more issues than just light strikes.
Have you tried factory ammo in it yet? Maybe it's your handloads but if it's locking back then they sound like they are strong enough to cycle it fully. When in doubt use factory loads then go back to your loads and compare results.
Good luck.
 
So I ran the gun again today and I think I figured out the issue. I ran the gun with the BAD lever and without, no difference. I ran the mags fully loaded and I had only 37/50 of my reloads fire. The rest were all light strikes, ie click and no bang. I than fired factory AE 115's and the gun ran 49/50. The AE's run 90fps faster than my reloads (1180 vs 1090). I think the solution is just to increase the grains in my reloads. Any other reason why factory ammo would be so much more reliable?

This is just a hunch that you may want to check out. I bought a 5.5'' barreled 9mm top end off of another member and found that my reloaded 9mm will not chamber properly. they are to big for the chamber, they work fine for my factory colt 9mm rifle and my 1911"s. So I am thinking I either have a tight chamber in the shorty top end or I may need a tight base die for my 9mm loading which is the case for many semi auto rifles. It is often recomended to use a tight base die for reloading on semi auto rifles.
 
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