Removing a barrel from Arisaka 38 rifle

grant580

grant580

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
112   0   0
Location
Western Canada
Hello fellow gunnutz!

Any one out there know how to get the barrel off a Japanese Arisaka 38 rifle?

Is the barrel screwed in, or sweated in? Hope someone out there can help.
 
What's wrong with the barrel? Barrels are screwed on. You'd need a barrel vise and a proper action wrench. Before you do anything, find a barrel. Very few, if any, are around.
 
Arisakas have a reputation for having the barrels screwed in tight. Correct tools are a necessity.
 
"...could they be made?..." Got access to a machine shop? Both can be made, but it take a bit of precise machining and the right steel. Doesn't have to be heat treated though. Designed the vise and wrench(and a bunch of bushing for different rifles) I made, long ago, from a picture. Buying is pricey.
This vise is similar to the one I made. Half inch bolts are plenty big enough.
http://www.gswagner.com/bblvise/bblvise.html
Brownell's sells both tools. Pricey for a one time thing.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=action+wrench/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=action_wrench
You'll also need headspace guages when you find a barrel.
 
Luckily I do have access to a machine shop for mostly free (we trade labour) and I think we can make that vise, really appreciate the info it is most helpful. Don't know what I'd do without my fellow gunnutz.
 
"...think we can make that vise..." Easier than you'd think. Used SPS steel myself. 2" square stock will do. Think mine was 3"(over kill, but it worked. Friggin' thing weighed around 50 pounds. Doesn't need to be that heavy.). Was doing a machining course at the time. Had already graduated and was going at night for something to do, so I got to do whatever I wanted without paying for the materials.
Two surfaces milled flat, two through holes in the base(bench mounting holes. Not absolutely necessary. Putting the whole thing in a regular 4" bench vise works just fine. Works better actually. Gets the vise up where you can hit the wrench.), two clearance holes through the top, two threaded holes(used 5/8-11) in the base and the hole through the centre of the joined hunks of steel.
I made the bushings out of mild steel with an internal taper to match the chamber area of the barrel(s). Drilled and tapered the hole on a lathe, then cut it in half lengthwise. Just by changing the bushing, the vise can do other barrels.
The action wrench must match the receiver ring of the action. Two hunks of bar stock machined to fit the receiver ring and machined flat on one side, a couple of bolts and longish steel bar stock handle(it's going to get hit with a great big hammer. We used a 4' hunk of 2" bar stock) is all you need. Used SPS round bar, as I recall. Cut it in half lengthwise and machined it. I think I made bushings that matched receiver rings for it too. It's been a long time.
Made it as part of a trade(the vise and a couple hours of bartending. Worked in the gun shop.) for an issue Colt Government Model. It got used for Lee-Enfield and M1 Carbine barrels, mostly.
Same vise and bushings to install barrels, but you need the headspace guage set for that.
 
sunray said:
"...think we can make that vise..." Easier than you'd think. Used SPS steel myself. 2" square stock will do. Think mine was 3"(over kill, but it worked. Friggin' thing weighed around 50 pounds. Doesn't need to be that heavy.). Was doing a machining course at the time. Had already graduated and was going at night for something to do, so I got to do whatever I wanted without paying for the materials.
Two surfaces milled flat, two through holes in the base(bench mounting holes. Not absolutely necessary. Putting the whole thing in a regular 4" bench vise works just fine. Works better actually. Gets the vise up where you can hit the wrench.), two clearance holes through the top, two threaded holes(used 5/8-11) in the base and the hole through the centre of the joined hunks of steel.
I made the bushings out of mild steel with an internal taper to match the chamber area of the barrel(s). Drilled and tapered the hole on a lathe, then cut it in half lengthwise. Just by changing the bushing, the vise can do other barrels.
The action wrench must match the receiver ring of the action. Two hunks of bar stock machined to fit the receiver ring and machined flat on one side, a couple of bolts and longish steel bar stock handle(it's going to get hit with a great big hammer. We used a 4' hunk of 2" bar stock) is all you need. Used SPS round bar, as I recall. Cut it in half lengthwise and machined it. I think I made bushings that matched receiver rings for it too. It's been a long time.
Made it as part of a trade(the vise and a couple hours of bartending. Worked in the gun shop.) for an issue Colt Government Model. It got used for Lee-Enfield and M1 Carbine barrels, mostly.
Same vise and bushings to install barrels, but you need the headspace guage set for that.
Click to expand...

You forgot to mention Rosin powder. This makes the barrel stick to the barrel vice. Don't use it and it will slip.
As for the rumour that Arisaka barrels are tight - not any of the ones I have turned off, they strarted with a bump from a 3 lb hammer and turned off very easily.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom