Removing Action on Savage MarkII 22lr.

.308--win

.308--win

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Location
BEFORE:Sop"s Arm, NL NOW:Southern Interior, BC
I want to remove the action on my Mark II, I know I have to remove a small rolled pin, But to actually get the action off, is it threaded? If so, is it left or right hand thread? Also do I need any special tools twist the barrel? Any hints and tips are greatly appreciated!!

Perry
 
.308--win said:
I want to remove the action on my Mark II, I know I have to remove a small rolled pin, But to actually get the action off, is it threaded? If so, is it left or right hand thread? Also do I need any special tools twist the barrel? Any hints and tips are greatly appreciated!!
Click to expand...

If you do a search in the link below, you should find lots of threads on the subject. I have not kept up with the latest, but I understand the ones made in Canada at the old Lakefield factory, are pressed in, and have a pin through them. My 2 year old BTVS is certainly made that way. I recall that Savage may be making some in the US now and the barrels may be threaded in, but like I say, have not kept up.

RFC Forum

I recall that the pressed and pinned ones are very difficult to get apart, and not likely possible by the home mechanic. It apparently requires a quite high capacity hydraulic press. I can see how you could put a brass bar down the action to press on the barrel face (after drilling/driving the pin out), but not obvious how you could hold the action without damaging it. At least on mine the action diameter is the same as the barrel diameter. Also the pin on mine is not a roll pin, but solid and peened over.

I think many conclude it is easier to buy a new gun than rebarrel a Savage. I recall one poster saying he went to the expense of replacement with a Lilja barrel, and accuracy was no better than the factory heavy barrel.
 
Make sure you drift the pins out left to right. Remove the pins BEFORE you remove the front lug as one of the pins goes through the front lug. The front lug is also jamming the barrel in position - there is a flat on the bottom of the barrel.

I got my barrel off no problem by clamping the action in a vise with some wood blocks to protect the sides and twisting by hand. It came off fairly easily. If yours is stuck worse than mine, you might put the barrel in a vise and use a little heat on the receiver.

It is an interference fit but not a press fit.

When you reassemble you must install the ejector with a spacer otherwise the lug that holds it down will interfere with the bolt which will throw off your headspace. To headspace these, just allow the bolt to contact the barrel - the actual bolt head is recessed to a depth just below a no-go.

Good luck.
 
thebigslide said:
Make sure you drift the pins out left to right. Remove the pins BEFORE you remove the front lug as one of the pins goes through the front lug. The front lug is also jamming the barrel in position - there is a flat on the bottom of the barrel.

I got my barrel off no problem by clamping the action in a vise with some wood blocks to protect the sides and twisting by hand. It came off fairly easily. If yours is stuck worse than mine, you might put the barrel in a vise and use a little heat on the receiver.

It is an interference fit but not a press fit.

When you reassemble you must install the ejector with a spacer otherwise the lug that holds it down will interfere with the bolt which will throw off your headspace. To headspace these, just allow the bolt to contact the barrel - the actual bolt head is recessed to a depth just below a no-go.
Click to expand...

Your gun sounds very different than my Mark II BTVS. Mine looks like this. By front lug do you mean the threaded cylinder that accepts the front action screw?

Action.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom