removing blueing?

chrisward3

chrisward3

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im going to remove the blueing on a 1964 remington 1100 in order to aluma-hyde it coyote tan. Ive read some articles that say using vinegar and steel wool will remove the finish off the firearm. is there any truth to this?

if not, what products do you recommend that will do the job at home?

Cheers!
 
Given that blueing is a form of rust or corrosion I suggested Bar Keeper's Friend scouring powder to a guy on another forum as I'd had good luck with it removing black corrosion stains (the precursor of rust) from non stainless kitchen knives. He tried it on a blued barrel and reported back that it worked well for him with fairly minimal scrubbing from a Scotchbrite pad along with a little water and the BKF. You can get the BKF from most specialty kitchen shops in malls. If they don't have it they can likely tell you where to get it.

The active ingredient that does the job is oxalic acid. This is the same stuff used in a number of rust removers. Naval Jelly rust remover is one such product. There are many other similar products.
 
Any acid should do the trick, personally I use Muraitic Acid (dilute hydrochloric acid), it works quick, but be careful, do it outside, don't breath the fumes, when done kill the action with a strong baking soda + water solution etc. read the precautions on the product. Also remember the metal is now very clean and usually starts to rust fairly quickly. Tried lemon juice, it works just takes longer but it is safer. FWIW --- John303.
 
CLR. it does a good job. you ill need to polish it a bit after as it leaves a bit of a yellow stain behind, but from what i have seen so do any other commercial bluing removers. CLR is just cheaper.

get a Tupperware container big enough for the action and mag tube and use rubber gloves and a sponge and washer down. (one with a mild scouring pad would work well)
 
once its stripped, I plan on spraying it with aluma-hyde from brownells to repaint it coyote tan.

will i be able to do this on the mag-tube where the piston slides? or will the thickness of the paint/coating be too much to cycle reliably?
 
chrisward3 said:
once its stripped, I plan on spraying it with aluma-hyde from brownells to repaint it coyote tan.

will i be able to do this on the mag-tube where the piston slides? or will the thickness of the paint/coating be too much to cycle reliably?
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I don't understand why the bluing needs to be removed in order to paint over it but I would not paint where the piston slides.
 
Just removing the bluing won't do anything for you. Coatings generally adhere best to a somewhat rough surface. Ideally, you would want to sandblast the metal, but I would go over it with a Scotch-Brite scuff pad if you don't have access to a sandblaster.

With some of the rougher matte-blued finishes, painting right over the existing bluing would probably be fine.
 
blood works great! no foolin', have you ever had some of your games blood drop on a blued rifle? Wipe it off quick or wipe the bueinng off aswell! haha
 
I didn,t have any vineager so I used some old apple cider and lemon juice with some steel wool...it worked fine. Took all the old blueing off and the dark spots out of the metal....used a cheap blueing kit from crappy tire and now it looks pretty good.
 
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