Removing Case Lube

y2k

y2k

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I’ve been reloading since the 1980s always used RCBS car lube that came in a little squirt bottle and then the lube pad and to get the lube off of the casings and also from inside the case neck just use very hot water and soap and a few washing and rinsing and let it dry and everything‘s fine.

Today used for the first time RCS case lube in a squirt bottle and I use the hot water and soap and it did not remove the lube so other than wiping every case inside and out with a rag how do you remove that case lube somewhere somebody had said brake clean. I reload hundreds at a time so sitting with a rag and you know rubbing case lube off of the casings not really something I wanna do
 
I just wipe the outsides with a rag or shop towel.
The insides only see dry lube from the neck mandrel as a last step just before loading.

Serves me very well.

However, back when I used to use the expander balls in the dies and ended up using lube inside the neck, i either stood them up in an ultrasonic bath or wiped out each neck with q-tips.

Huge PITA and of little value once i did some load testing.

Now i just deprime on one press, fl resize on another using imperial wax (outside only), wipe the case and then run each case through once more with a neck mandrel and dry neck lube.

Then primer, powder, and pill.

So each case goes up and down 4 times but i get Consistent SD’s in the single digits.

My target and hunting loads seem worth the trouble.
 
I kind of think I didn’t have the water as hot as I should. I remember years ago, turning the hot water tank full blast or full up an hour before.
 
I use powdered graphite as an inside-the-neck lubricant [after the cases are lubed, turn each case upside down and insert the neck into the powdered graphite, then proceed to size the case. I use Wipe-Out case lube to lube the outside of the case.

After de-priming and again after sizing, the cases go into a camp sink into which very hot water, a splash of Dawn & an ounce or so of industrial de-greaser are placed. Swish the cases around with your hand, let them sit there for a few minutes, then remove & drain in a colander, then put the brass into an old bath towel, fold it over & then grab both ends of the towel and shake back & forth. Spread them out on the floor on top of some newspaper & let sit for a day until they are completely dry.
 
About half of the time I use alcohol or brake clean; the other half I throw the loaded rounds into the case cleaner. It sort of depends, if I’m developing loads my teloadimg bench is 40 feet from my shooting bench, most of that inside so I seldom feel like waitingz😂
 
y2k said:
I’ve been reloading since the 1980s always used RCBS car lube that came in a little squirt bottle and then the lube pad and to get the lube off of the casings and also from inside the case neck just use very hot water and soap and a few washing and rinsing and let it dry and everything‘s fine.

Today used for the first time RCS case lube in a squirt bottle and I use the hot water and soap and it did not remove the lube so other than wiping every case inside and out with a rag how do you remove that case lube somewhere somebody had said brake clean. I reload hundreds at a time so sitting with a rag and you know rubbing case lube off of the casings not really something I wanna do
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I through mine into a sonic cleaner, hot water and a bit of Dawn dish soap.
 
JohnnyPython said:
What is the problem with leaving the case lube on?
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Supposedly the lube causes the case to slide backwards against the bolt face upon firing instead of sealing itself to the chamber and causes excessive pressure. I don't know that it does, but why take the risk? I reload because I enjoy it and because it saves me money, not just because it saves me money. So, although I don't look for extra work while reloading, I certainly don't skip steps to make it easier for me, especially if it could cause a safety issue.

In pistol ammo, I don't use case lube for straight wall cases, but I still give the loaded rounds a wipedown as I box the ammo to check for cracked cases or other defects like bulged brass or high primers. With the speed of modern progressive presses, a little time spent double-checking the ammo at the end is no big deal in the long run. At least, to me it isn't.
 
PPCLI-Jim said:
Rubbing alcohol, I filled a tub with it soaked the brass. Then I pour the alcohol back into the container, I get a lot of brass done before it becomes too contaminated.
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Me too ! Rubbing alcohol from Costco - put the brass in a container fill till it covers the brass let it sit for a bit then swirl it around a bit -then I pour the brass and and alcohol out thru a sieve into another container then just lay the brass out on a old towel to dry ! Like ppcli I just pour the A back into the container till next time 👍 cleans the sticky #### off . 😊
 
After depriming and wet tumbling/drying I resize then trim, after that a quick 15 minute wet tumble n dry again to get rid of lube/brass shavings before priming/powder/pill
 
Ghillbert said:
After depriming and wet tumbling/drying I resize then trim, after that a quick 15 minute wet tumble n dry again to get rid of lube/brass shavings before priming/powder/pill
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If I'm doing swaged brass, thats how I handle it also, I remove the crimp then wet tumble. This is the time I add the lemi shine, because of the method I use to get rid of the crimp. At always leaves swarf on the sticky case, below is how I remove the crimp.

 
I anneal, citrus sonic clean, resize, trim, citrus sonic clean, walnut tumbler, de-prime then light soap sonic clean. I use a 21 century expander mandrel before priming and loading. I like em shiny and clean. No contamination. Cheers
 
The product I’m using is called RCBS case slick. I bought a couple bottles about six or eight years ago. This is the first time I’ve got to use them, but I noticed that they are quite a bit evaporated out of the bottle so I think what it is is. I’m using the extra thick mixture more concentrated mixture.

Next time I use it, I think I’m gonna thin it down
 
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