Removing Grizzly shotgun sight

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1300_stainless

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Nova Scotia, Canada
I have purchased a Dominion Arms Grizzly shotgun barrel and am hoping to remove the front sight. I really don't need rifle or ghost ring sights on this shotgun. The barrel is threaded for chokes and that's why I picked it up. I haven't received the barrel yet. If the sight is soldered I'm wondering if it's something I can remove myself without damaging the barrel. I have access to a propane or MAP gas torch, but nothing higher tech than that at the moment. Thoughts/tips/tricks from those in the know would be appreciated.

 
If it is soldered, even silver solder, your propane torch will do nicely. More likely to be brazed though. I'd wait until you can look at it.
 
Is the barrel thick where it's threaded for the chokes? i bought a Norinco that was choked after it was bought and then buddy added a wilson combat front sight and I swear it's paper thin under the sight!
Maybe just grind it flat and use it as a sight base for the bead. You will need a base anyways with that short barrel so I'd take it to the range and pattern it, figure out the best height for the bead, do some calculating to figure out the base height, grind flat, drill and tap, insert the bead of your choice and your done!
 
Can-down said:
Is the barrel thick where it's threaded for the chokes? i bought a Norinco that was choked after it was bought and then buddy added a wilson combat front sight and I swear it's paper thin under the sight!
Maybe just grind it flat and use it as a sight base for the bead. You will need a base anyways with that short barrel so I'd take it to the range and pattern it, figure out the best height for the bead, do some calculating to figure out the base height, grind flat, drill and tap, insert the bead of your choice and your done!
Click to expand...

This was actually going to be my go to plan if removal was too in depth. I happen to have a new fiber optic bead laying around. That or file the existing sight into a blade type bead/sight of appropriate height, similar to the Dlask barrels.

CanAm said:
they are brazed with a yellow alloy, maybe brass. the barrel needs to be heated red hot and refinished
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Thanks for the info! Canada Ammo has been super helpful with answering my questions BTW. Refinishing wouldn't be a big deal but I'm not crazy about the idea of getting the barrel that hot unnecessarily. Especially considering it is likely thin in that area.

Thanks Everyone!
 
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Red hot sounds like a bad idea.
If you want no sights at all cut it off with a zip blade on a grinder and then grind it down carefully and finish by hand.

edit, after reading your reply it seems you want sights.

I'd shape a nice contoured base of the correct height and then drill and tap it a common size shotgun bead. Brownells sells beads, bits and taps in kits that are inexpensive.
Gives you options down the road.
 
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Yes, it is much hotter than you expect. for the diy'er a saw and file would be much less stressful

I have seen them braze them at the factory and it looks like the barrel will melt!
 
Holy cow, I was curious about this too, but I think I'll leave well enough alone ... and if I need to, I'll cut, file and touch up.
CanAm said:
Yes, it is much hotter than you expect. for the diy'er a saw and file would be much less stressful

I have seen them braze them at the factory and it looks like the barrel will melt!
Click to expand...
 
Can-down said:
I'd shape a nice contoured base of the correct height and then drill and tap it a common size shotgun bead. Brownells sells beads, bits and taps in kits that are inexpensive. Gives you options down the road.
Click to expand...

Really seems like the way to go at this point. I've actually already got the tooling and bead to do the job. Knowing now what it would take to remove it, it's a no brainer to go the route you suggest. My original intention if the sight was easily removed was to replace it with a pedestal bead. Mostly for the learning experience in doing the work. However I'm not willing to potentially damage the barrel when I can have essentially the same result without risk.
 
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Any recommendations on what size hole I should tap, 3-56 or 6-48? My thought was to start 3-56 so I could go bigger if I have problems. However that's a pretty small tap and honestly I'm worried about breaking it. My plan was to secure the tap or tap handle in the drill press somehow to steady it and manually rotate it.
 
I forget which size is more common but I'd go with the most common size. I've never tapped a blind hole which is trickier then a through hole but since you should hav a fairly tall base you can drill the hole deeper then the threads on the bead without touching the barrel. That should make it a bit easier to cut but you may still need a square non tapered tap to finish the cut?
Might be worth getting a machinist or smith to do it once you've prepped the base.
 
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