Removing rediculously overtightened scope screws - help plz :(

One trick to removing seized or stuck fastners is to put the proper sized screw driver or bit into the screw, Then tap is home and give it a good wrap with a hammer straight down. The shock will often loosen the screw. Take care not to damage the screw or surounding area.

Pete

thanks -- i had actually tried this with a bit and a small hammer. this trick really helps on seized or rusted bolts but in this case i dont think they were seized at all - just incredibly overtightened.
 
Sorry ... too late.

An "impact driver" (interchangeable bits ... usually 3/8 drive) would have surely worked. See your Snap-On or Mac Tools man. Will loosen any overtightened screw ... or tighten one up to the point you can't get it to back out with a screwdriver. Used for many years to tighten the phillips head & other screw head types on motorcycles. Need to be "ridiculously" tight so they wont vibrate loose.
 
Used for many years to tighten the phillips head & other screw head types on motorcycles. Need to be "ridiculously" tight so they wont vibrate loose.

I do own an impact driver,but on my motorcycles, I prefer to use medium strength loctite and tighten the screws to reasonable torques.Even better is to use the loctite and replace the screws with allen head or torx screws.

On my scope rings ,I use torx heads and no loctite.
 
try thr heat and tap lightly on the sriver you are using to take them out tap well turning and that helps like an impact gun on a lug nut it usees the shock to free the tight nuts your just doing it in a smaller scale
 
That's how I eventually did it. Carefully drilled the heads off.

I refused to believe that anyone could be so daft, kept thinking it must be Loctite, but when I removed the rings, there was a nice little ridge of cured epoxy on bottom ring. :cool:

Heated it up and turned the stubs out with small vise grips.

Ted
 
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I do own an impact driver,but on my motorcycles, I prefer to use medium strength loctite and tighten the screws to reasonable torques.Even better is to use the loctite and replace the screws with allen head or torx screws.

On my scope rings ,I use torx heads and no loctite.

Resorted to allen head screws, nylon "lock" nuts & safety wire where it was applicable and possible. "Torx" head screws/bolts weren't available back in the day. "Red loctite wasn't an option. On the track, "blue" loctite would vibrate loose - proved it many times racing go-karts, bikes and cars - although it's probably a viable alternative on a street bike.

For scope rings - absolutely concur, clean, lightly oiled threads - allen head or torx screws, ...no loctite.
 
How about induction heating?

I was thinking on something so small a light duty stick welder set low so the rod (3/32) sticks to the bolt head, heats it up strecthes the joint.
 
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