Ive got an 1859 Manhattan navy (another spin on the cold navy) anyways, ive got 2 of the original nipples out but cant budge the other 3. Im trying to replace the nipples to shoot the thing...Any suggestions on how to get the old nipples out? Ive soaked the cylinder for days in a rust penetrant and cant get them out. Should i try heat? torch? or will this discolour the steel on the cylinder? Any help appreciated.
Removing rusted nipples
- Thread starter sportee
- Start date
You will probably have to use heat and I would suggest using a welding tip to localize the heat and minimize the discolouring. I would head it up to 4-500F and spray or pour penetrating oil on the nipple from front and back several times and hopefully you will get lucky (with the nipple)(of the gun)
The fact that you were able to remove 2 of the nipples is a hopeful sign that the rest are not to badly frozen.
cheers mooncoon
The fact that you were able to remove 2 of the nipples is a hopeful sign that the rest are not to badly frozen.
cheers mooncoon
I have had the same thing on many of my original cap & ball revolvers, the Remington, Rogers & Spencer, Bacon and Colts. I found soaking them long and well then fitting a nipple wrench nice and tight to the old nipples helpful. The modern wrenches don't seem to fit the smaller original revolver nipples as well as I would like. I would be hesitant to put any fire to it, though one of the smiths or experts(mooncoon) might know more about this.
Also, can you pick and clean the original nipples? You might be alright by just getting a good vent in the original nipples. The old revolver nipples work well with modern #10 caps in my experience. I find the #11s loose and will bind up the old revolvers often even if pinched when going on.
Good luck with it, I really enjoy my antique cap and ball guns, I hope your Manhattan works out as well.
Also, can you pick and clean the original nipples? You might be alright by just getting a good vent in the original nipples. The old revolver nipples work well with modern #10 caps in my experience. I find the #11s loose and will bind up the old revolvers often even if pinched when going on.
Good luck with it, I really enjoy my antique cap and ball guns, I hope your Manhattan works out as well.
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gunasauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Soak the whole works in water for a couple of days. The water will re-activate the rust, and it'll come free easier. Worse case scenario, silver solder a small nut onto the nipple and use a wrench....
gunasauras said:
this is a revolver cylinder which makes it pretty hard to get a nut into the space. Silver soldering a short shaft on risks breaking the top of the nipple off and creating more of a problem. It also requires heating the nipple at least red hot and potentially greater discolouration than from heating the nipple and rapid cooling with penetrating oil. The oil won't penetrate but it cools the area rapidly. With a bit of luck a few cycles will break the bond. If the nipple wrench is too large, they are not too hard to make provided the nipple flats are not already worn or damaged.
While I like the idea of using water, I am suspicious that the threads and rust are too tight for it to absorb or migrate in.
cheers mooncoon
gunasauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Western Manitoba
mooncoon said:
Forgot it was a revolver......I've had the water method work for me the one time i had to use it before....guess it'll depend on the rust though as you said.....
- Location
- West coast of Vancouver Island
^LOL, Repeat if necessary!
I removed the original nipples from my 51 navy. I used deep 3/16, 1/4in drive sockets and a manual impact wrench with a 1/2 to 1/4 in adapter. First I filed a notch in the end of the socket so that it matched the business end of a nipple wrench. After a liberal dowsing of Kroil oil, and placing the cylinder in a vise(with thick leather padding around it), I set to work (carefully)with the impact wrench, adapter and socket/nipple wrench, and a hammer. It took 2 days, and 4 socket/nipple wrenches to get the six rusted nipples out. No heat was used. I got the sockets from a pawn shop that had loose sockets in a bin. The sockets were pretty soft, which is why it took 4 of them. I suppose I could have hardened them, but didn't think of that at the time. If you plan on going this route, take the cylinder with you to make sure the socket fits in the nipple recess, the Manhatten 5 shot has smaller ones than the Colt. I have a few Manhatten parts if your interested. KD
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Just removed a broken modern nipple from a 40 year old repro cylinder. At some time it had been snapped off, an easyout had been hammered in and broken off. Carbide drills were of little use. Finally cut away most of the easyout with diamond burrs, drove out the rest. Used the burrs to turn the broken nipple shank into a thin walled tube. Collapsed one wall of the nipple shank with a chisel, picked the rest of it out. Pain in the butt, but I got it out, threads are OK. The other 5 could be unscrewed with a decent fitting wrench, Kroil, and alternate tightening, loosening.
well, it looks like ive got a few methods to try out. Unfortunately i already broke the head off one of the nipples. Ive already tried soaking the cylider for days with no luck. I heard about using impact tools and heat but wanted some opinions before i go ruining an old piece.
I had 2 frozen nipples on a Uberti Walker I bought a couple years ago. I made wrench out of a socket as previously outlined. After a weeks soaking in penetrating oil 1 came out the second required some heat with oxy-acetylene - it spun out easily. It now runs like a clock (see avatar)
