removing savage internal mag

snakeneil

snakeneil

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I've got an older Savage model 10, pre accu-trigger, and I can't figure out how to remove the internal mag, it's got steel tounges on both ends that go into slots in the action and the lips of the mag go up into the action so I can't easily slide the box sideways to remove it. I'm going to attempt my first glass bedding job and need to strip the action.
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Hi - I had a similar issue with a Model 12 with Accutrigger when bedding it - that internal magazine wouldn't come out for pie.

I ended up wrapping the whole magazine assembly (front, back, sides, and bottom) in a layer of plasticine, making sure that the entire layer of plasticine was thicker than any part of the magazine, to ensure that when I was removing the stock after the epoxy had set up, no epoxy could be locking in the magazine in the well.

My magazine had a few holes in the sides, which was useful for making plasticine "rivets" to hold the larger slabs in place. Not sure how well it'd work with yours, since your mag seems pretty flat-sided.

If you're going to try this approach, definitely do some action-to-stock dry-fittings with the plasticine in place before you do the real run. In particular, during the dry-runs, make sure that when you pull the action back out, the plasticine is still in place and hasn't been moved/thinned-down by bumping the mag cut-out on the way into the stock.

It worked out pretty well, but the whole process was pretty nerve-wracking - I couldn't find any references anywhere on bedding an internal magazine action with the magazine in place, so I was forced to make up the process as I did it. Result was worthwhile, tho - made a solid 0.5 MOA shooter out of the otherwise stock Savage BVSS.

Anyway, good luck with this!
 
You can try this. If there is play in the box mag front and aft, then use a flat blade screwdriver on the forward piece of the mag. . Use a rubber mallot or like to wrap the screwdriver while applying pressure to the front of the mag just above the action. This may provide enough to pop the mag out. Some of the early ones were welded in place and I have had to use a dremel cutter to remove the welds. Give the ol hammer trick a try..It just may work out. I did one on a 1950s model 110 the other day and worked like a charm.
Elky
 
There should be a slot that one of the lips should be able to slide out of, but the other side doesnt. what i had to do was basically grab it with a pair of pliers and bend it side ways. i thought it was going to break but it popped out and went right back to shape. its a pretty flexible metal, dont be afraid to hurt it
 
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