Removing surface rust w/o damaging blueing

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I've recently acquired a No1Mk3 (sportster, so it's blued, not parkerised/painted) at a bargain price, the downside is that there's alot of surface rust, no pitting though. I was wondering what were the best means of removing the rust while preserving the blue. I know that most 'rust removal' products will take the blue off aswell as blue itself is some kind of 'rust'.

Any tips?
 
One way is to use lots of oil, and a sharp brass scraper. You can even hammer a cartidge case mouth flat, and sharpen it with a file. The brass edge will remove rust, but won't cut into steel. If brass smears are left, use bore cleaner to remove it. Fine steel wool and oil is also useful. As rust forms, it goes through a sort of evolution. Often the primarly phase can be removed without noticeable loss of blue, or much evidence that there had been rust forming. Once you've got scabs which have eaten into the surface, blemishes are going to remain. Sometimes even if there is no pitting, the bluing will be gone under the rust. Go slowly, go after only the rust, and don't scour the whole area.
 
cover all the rust with gun oil, wait that it's penetrate the rust, then rub smoothly with extra fine steel wool, wipe, oil again , and wipe.
If rust if just on surface, you won't damage the blue.
 
I have always used Hoppes #9 solvent and 0000 (extra fine) steel wool. It will not harm the blueing at all..... however the rust you are removing has already harmed the blueing some what..... you may be able to see some slight change in the blueing or even white spots where the light rust was.......
 
Thanks for all the tips. I was expecting that the process would leave blemishes in the blue, but for a 100$ rifle, I won't be too fancy. I want it to be a shooter, not a wallhanger ;)
 
A fine brass wire wheel in a bench grinder or hand drill will take off the rust without bothering any remaining finish. A light touch and don't forget eye protection.
No bench grinder? Use light gun oil and 0000 steel wool.
 
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