Removing the Norc flash hider...

If you look real careful like at the underside of the FS at the end of it, you will notice two round discoloured spots a little more that an 1/8" in diameter. Those are the spot welds.

Beat the FS with a brass drift, hitting the area of the bayo lug (if it had one) in the direction of the muzzel. You will need a few whacks at it. Don't forget to move the castle nut forward so the FS does not rest on it,

Mine was quite the beast, one weld gave way the other took a piece of the FS. Hope that helps.


2katz
 
You can also use the castle nut to help pull the flash hider off. I ended up drilling out the majority of the welds with an endmill and then used the castle nut to pull it off. Down on the end where it is welded, the flash hider is quite thin so if you do not drill out the welds, you run the risk of tearing the metal around them.

Good luck. I was hoping those cloth eared rat bags wouldn't weld the new ones together.

Ripstop
 
I have removed about 13 flash hiders that have invisible welds. IMHO the best way is to evenly heat and then tap off. You don't have to beat the crap out of the end of the barrel. Use a mini torch. After removal, dremel off the weld burrs.

There was one guy on this forum that tried to beat it off so hard he cracked the barrel and ended up with a shorty and then had to re-register it :p
 
Ya Know,

The U.S. had nothing but problems with the M-14 flash hiders coming loose and affecting accuracy. The Chinese have come up with a simple effective solution and tac welded the flash hider to the barrel. Why fix what ain't broken? Why do you have a desire to remove the flash hider?

Scott
 
m39a2 said:
Ya Know,

The U.S. had nothing but problems with the M-14 flash hiders coming loose and affecting accuracy. The Chinese have come up with a simple effective solution and tac welded the flash hider to the barrel. Why fix what ain't broken? Why do you have a desire to remove the flash hider?

Scott
Click to expand...

I suppose the concepts of Navy sights and Vortex FH's are unfamiliar to you... :wink: To each his own, apparently you're happy with a stock Norinco, and I'm not. :)
 
Well now,

Rather than spending all the time carefully removing the flash hider, why not just saw the barrel off behind it, since you have to remove all the threads and splines anyway to thread for the vortex?

Remember, by making the barrel any shorter, even say 2 inches, you now have reduced your 7.62 NATO gun to the power of a .30-30 with less shots than a Winchester 94.

Although shimming the gas system is important when building a full length competition rifle, if it's a short rifle you are building then shimming will have very little effect do the the distances you will be limited to. Shortening the sight radious has the most effect on the accuracy of the piece. It it's a barrel mounted "Scout" type optic sight then you are limited to 200m any way.
Just some thoughts.

Scott
 
If you are not planning on shortening the barrel and use a Smith Vortex sold by Brownells

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=18711

Then removal of the FH is necessary unless you get the direct connect Vortex. I also think for the guy at home it is far easier to remove it than to go to the expense of chopping the barrel, have it re-crowned and threaded. The closest shop to me that is equipped to do that kind of work is 150KM away. I am sure that there are a few other guys here that would have to go even further, or send it out to someone like Epps
 
m39a2 said:
Well now,

Rather than spending all the time carefully removing the flash hider, why not just saw the barrel off behind it, since you have to remove all the threads and splines anyway to thread for the vortex?

Remember, by making the barrel any shorter, even say 2 inches, you now have reduced your 7.62 NATO gun to the power of a .30-30 with less shots than a Winchester 94.

Although shimming the gas system is important when building a full length competition rifle, if it's a short rifle you are building then shimming will have very little effect do the the distances you will be limited to. Shortening the sight radious has the most effect on the accuracy of the piece. It it's a barrel mounted "Scout" type optic sight then you are limited to 200m any way.
Just some thoughts.

Scott
Click to expand...

Actually the Smith direct connect goes right on and secures with the castle nut, just like the GI issue... And .308/7.62 blows the doors off of .30-30 from the same length barrel, I assume you were referring to the shortest non restricted length of 18.5".

Here's what the data looks like, and remember that in this case the .30-30 barrel is 1.5" longer:

.30-30 Win, 20" barrel: 150gr Hornandy, 34.0gr H4895 (max) 2190fps MUZZLE ENERGY 1597.5ft-lbs

.308 Win, 18.5" barrel : 150gr Hornandy SST, 48.2gr IMR4064 (max) 2800fps MUZZLE ENERGY 2611.5ft-lbs


In other words, the .308 with the same weight bullet, from a barrel 1.5" shorter is producing more than 1000ft-lbs more energy! Now that's not what I call .30-30 ballistics! The .308/7.62 actually performs extremely well in short barrels due to its small case design.
 
FYI guys the flash hiders are not welded on they are silver soldered on. You do not have to beat the crap out of them to remove, just wrap your barrel with a wet rag to take the heat and heat the FH with MAPP gass, brazing fuel, Prestolite etc, then tap lightly to break the bond. I have removed flashiders from old polytechs and new M305's and they ALL have been silver soldered.
 
Further to this discussion,
We just did 10 flash hiders, they were all WELDED on not silver soldered.
2 points, 1. silver solder will not take blue
2. silver solder will not parkerize.

Scott
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom