Removing varnish

I'm pretty sure Minwax tung oil is a combination of varnish and oil (it sure smells like it). If your looking for an oil finish, Tru-oil, the Circa 1850 tung oil or Lee Valley tung oil would be the stuff to use... Having never used tung oil before I first purchased and used the Minwax tung on a stock I decided to refinish. I realized it was varnish (or at least more than just tung oil), stripped it off and used the circa 1850 product. I'm happier with the Circa 1850 tung oil results.
 
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I dont want to hyjack..............just a quick question....
A friend builds golf clubs for a living, he uses water based dies for wood.

Anyone ever try this?
 
I've been using Tru-oil for many years and like it, if you get some dings when hunting they are easy to touch up. cet, i don't use dies much but think the one i did use years ago was water based, no problems that i remember. The finish after should seal the wood anyways.
 
ruined all the spacers on it with poly stripper. Could have cried at the time.
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yes .. I know that feeling well mrgoat !!!

but well worth it as the wood in that Alaskan had nice grain that the original finish masked
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this is not uncommon ... I have a experienced this with the older BRNO ZKK's where beautiful wood has been hidden behind very nasty varnish ... ITOH ... I guess the advantage to an ugly stock is you dont mind taking it out to hunt! I have a couple of rifles with wood (once uncovered!) that really ought to be living room furniture.
 
Magellann said:
Ive been using Behr tung oil for years, its worked very well on all the stocks Ive done with it.
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I've used it on about 6 guns (plus other wood projects) and have been very, very pleased with the results. You can't buy the product anymore, however, but I bought a few cans before it was 'banned'.
 
Well I'm done and pleased with the results.

Before after stripping with Circa 1850




After with three coats of Tru Oil. Rubbed lightly with 0000 steel wool after last coat.


 
Fall Guy said:
I've used it on about 6 guns (plus other wood projects) and have been very, very pleased with the results. You can't buy the product anymore, however, but I bought a few cans before it was 'banned'.
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I never realized it was no longer available, Ive had the can I use for at least 15 years now, had I known they were going to discontinue it I would have bought an extra can as well.
 
cet said:
I dont want to hyjack..............just a quick question....
A friend builds golf clubs for a living, he uses water based dies for wood.

Anyone ever try this?
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I'm sure it would be fine as long as you seal it in with an oil rubbed finish or a varnish. I prefer the oil rubbed finish as its very easy to maintain after you are done.
 
Tazzy, Did you fill the pores of the wood?? Lightly drag the edge of your finger nail across the grain if it doesn't feel smooth like a piece of glass the pores need more filling.
 
mrgoat said:
Tazzy, Did you fill the pores of the wood?? Lightly drag the edge of your finger nail across the grain if it doesn't feel smooth like a piece of glass the pores need more filling.
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I didn't sand it down before refinishing because I wanted to keep the character in it. I did rub it with steel wool though. It does look a little rough in the bottom picture, I did go back after that picture was taken and rub it smoother again. I will remember the fingernail test for next time.

Thanks



 
No worries looks good. For future reference, the wood pores can be either filled by sanding and making a slury from the dust and oil, a commercial filler, or applying a couple coats of finish at a time and letting it dry then taking it back down to the wood with #0000, and repeating until she's like glass, wash the stock down in naptha or lighter fluid when dry, wash your hands then apply your oil a drop or two at a time on your index finger.

The way you have this stock finished now it is a very easy to refinish, or repair if it gets scratched or damaged. That's the beauty of these types of finishes over the stock varnishes, expoxy's and variants. After the fall season each year I give each of mine a little going over to keep them touched up and by the time fall roles around again the finish is very well hardened and dried and good to go.
 
Very nice!

Since nobody mentioned it, if you apply stain to checkering, it will suck up WAY more colour than the surrounding smooth wood.
So go easy.
 
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