- Location
- Okanagan Valley B.C.
Renewing a rifle stock
- Thread starter skwerl
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I have had decent "luck" using Circa 1950 paint and varnish remover - after removing all metal (and plastic) things. No doubt others can share about something much less "nasty" - in my case, once I started with that remover, I never went back to any abrasive, sandpaper or metal scraping to remove old finishes. I found many "home done" re-finishes were likely never dis-assembled - so find whatever finish "over-runs" also on metal parts, etc. - that tends to come off metal parts with soak in Varsol, Mineral Spirits, Ed's Red, Acetone or whatever - or lately with Ultra Sonic cleaner machine.
My late experience is mostly with elderly military stocks - once you get into them, find much of that original wood is soaked in "gun oils" or whatever - is not "strong" any more - need to get that oil out, or use chisel to cut out punky area and glue in "good stuff". Is possible that you might run into similar where metal meets wood.
My late experience is mostly with elderly military stocks - once you get into them, find much of that original wood is soaked in "gun oils" or whatever - is not "strong" any more - need to get that oil out, or use chisel to cut out punky area and glue in "good stuff". Is possible that you might run into similar where metal meets wood.
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Are you sure that isn't the original finish????? Shellac has been around for a long time and was used as a stock finishing material since inception.
That doesn't appear to be covered "oil" finish from your pics.
That doesn't appear to be covered "oil" finish from your pics.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Once you get the old finish off - becomes possible to stain wood pieces to match each other - an acquaintance suggested 50/50 mix of linseed oil and MinWax Red Mahogany stain - apply to both pieces of wood - keep drenched - soaking wet maybe 5 minutes - then rub off hard with terry rag or similar - idea is to get oil off the surface - all that stays is what soaks INTO the wood, not what is ON it. I left the pieces hanging to dry in garage overnight - felt dry next day, so I repeated on lightest looking piece - that mix makes it go darker - apparently stain and linseed oil seem to go right through that first coat. Once you get dry coat so that colours looks correct, just go on with straight linseed oil - I did not see colour change by doing that - somewhere I read to NOT apply next coating, until first coating very dry to touch. By third or fourth coating of linseed oil - was maybe a finger's worth - dipped in container - a few drops worth - to do most of stock and hand guards - and rub real hard with bare skin - to create some heat from friction - allow that to dry until next day.
- Location
- Okanagan Valley B.C.
actually bear , that is what my gun dr. had suggested.
wet n dry then shelac.
just I haven't seen a good original gloss finish.
...skwerl
Attachments
If it's shellac it will come out with isopropyl alcohol - the stronger the alcohol, the faster it will come off (that is what I use to mix shellac flakes!) - you can test with a few drops of alcohol or even just a small rag and hot water. (soak the rag in hot water, wring it out so it's just damp, rest it on the stock for a minute or two - if the finish turns white or cloudy (and gets soft) = shellac. incidentally also why shellac is not a good choice. I don't recommend shellac for anything but presentation/safe queen guns.
While shellac is not durable IMO for a working gun - nothing out there can give you as nice a finish as shellac (think French polish)
Also if you are steaming out a lot of dents, do yourself a favour and pick up one of those R/C airplane covering sealing irons. much nicer to work with than using a clothing iron!
- Location
- Okanagan Valley B.C.
Well sean , I just completed your /the shelac test. That is what it is.
I wasn't sure if shelac was used from the factory.
So smooth sand then a coat of shelac./
...skwerl
I looked into those and think I will stick with my old non-steam flat iron and a wet cotton rag.
Pretty much, yea - you know, test it again with actual alcohol... but yea, wipe it off, probably only need to whisker it, 320 or 400 paper should be fine.
really, why? Definitely not a *needed* tool, but works identical, gets hotter and you can get into tighter spaces - like inside a pistol grip. Also takes up way less space (and no one screams at you when they can't find their iron)
Have both (been sealing Monokote longer than removing dents).
I'll stick with my old cloths iron from when we did our own ski's...holds heat WAY longer and you get a lot more steam when using with a hot wet rag.
I'll stick with my old cloths iron from when we did our own ski's...holds heat WAY longer and you get a lot more steam when using with a hot wet rag.
