Repairing a SMLE No.1 MKIII cracked stock

[fishduck]

I need some help. I have inherited a SMLE No.1 MKIII. During cleaning and inspection the wood was so dry the stock cracked. I would like to repair it. I have all the pieces. Would repair with a standard wood glue bring this back to firing condition?

Is there anything safety wise I should be concerned about with this repair and reassembly?

Here are some photos with each piece being placed in its correct spot.

http://imgur.com/a/GKPbO

 

[maple_leaf_eh]

I need some help. I have inherited a SMLE No.1 MKIII. During cleaning and inspection the wood was so dry the stock cracked. I would like to repair it. I have all the pieces. Would repair with a standard wood glue bring this back to firing condition?

Is there anything safety wise I should be concerned about with this repair and reassembly?

Here are some photos with each piece being placed in its correct spot.

http://imgur.com/a/GKPbO

Summon the Force, Luke.

errrr send a PM to louthepou. He knows.

 

[Dyspnea]

It would need to be glued and pinned.

 

[fishduck]

It would need to be glued and pinned.

I see the pins. I'm new to those. What exactly are the purpose of those pins and is it easy to do?

 

[kawicrash]

You disassembled it wrong. You took the butstock off first, didn't you??
I have a 1919 Lithgow sporter that the seller did that when he took it apart to ship it to me.
Glue, small dowels and #4 brass screws got it all back together.

 

[fat tony]

Looks like a Lithgow. Repair is probably the only way to go. It will be hard finding a spare Coachwood forend even if it is a bubba forend. Have fun.

 

[Dyspnea]

I see the pins. I'm new to those. What exactly are the purpose of those pins and is it easy to do?

Brass pins or hardwood dowels help secure the pieces together in addition to glue. Something I would leave to an experienced wood worker

 

[rgg_7]

It's a sporter. Epoxy works great. I'd buy a forend. Lots of sporter ones out there. Ron

 

[louthepou]

As Ron mentioned, since that one has already been sporterized, finding a spare to replace it would be much easier... I have box full of less destroyed ones.

This being said, this one's a nice example of something which may look hopeless, but may be salvaged, should the rifle and forend be worth it (say, if the rifle was all original and the forend number matched). The key here is that all the bits are still present. It's much easier to rebuild the rear part of a forend when all the bits and pieces are present. Proper, thorough, complete cleaning of the bits is key; there should be no trace of any oil, grease, grime or any other contaminant. Then, quality epoxy and careful use of pins can do miracles. Or close to miracles, anyways.

Lou