Have had my eye out for a m98 husqvarna for awhile. They seem prone to have the area behind the tang split perhaps not the worst and likely can be stabilized but still want to hear some advice on replacement walnut sporting stocks. Quality sources out there. Boyd’s show up a lot in my googling but any Canadian options do the husky’s fit well? Prevention for future tang cracks? If be in a budget for a replacement stock of 500.00 or so.
Replacement walnut m98 sporting stock
- Thread starter mctrigger
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
You asked about prevention? I have repaired a few of them. The rear tang of a Mauser 98 is shaped roughly like a round nose wedge. If the recoil bedding at the front of the receiver goes soft (soaked in gun oil?), or was never fitted, and especially if the action screws were allowed to loosen (stock wood shrinking with age or drying out?), the receiver wants to move rearward within the stock inletting, under recoil - the shape of that rear tang acts to force the sides apart and results in a split in the stock usually right in line with the centre of the nose of the tang. So the cause, and the place that needs to be corrected, is at the recoil shoulder at the front of the receiver. That can be as simple as a piece of shim stock between the recoil lug of the receiver and the wood recoil shoulder, or as complicated as a glass bedding job with the receiver held forward to get some glass build up on the front face of that recoil shoulder. When properly set up, there should be a gap - perhaps 1/32" to 1/16" between the tail end nose of the metal tang, and the stock. I have had decent luck using three layers of masking tape at the very rear end of the tang - as a spacer to the inletting, when doing a "glass bedding" for that receiver.
Once you are in to it, several more improvements are possible, especially with heavy recoiling hunting rifles - remove the metal sleeve from the rear action hole in the stock - drill a hole from top (inside the inletting) rearward and downward to end up inside the pistol grip cap - do not break through - then slather in epoxy and insert a metal rod - redi-rod (all thread) will work - gives you a metal reinforced wrist, all hidden at both ends. Next area is the small section ahead of trigger and behind the magazine mortice - stock will often split there - Remington, since WWI, used a threaded pin across there - can see the brass dots. Winchester Model 70 often have a cross bolt there - just like at the recoil lug. Weatherby uses an internal reinforcement - metal piece shaped like a "U" - gouge or router out inside and set it in with epoxy - good support and totally hidden.
As far as ordering or selecting a stock, the FN actions on Husqvarna's were pretty standard Model 98's, although many Husqvarna's are built on 96 style actions - same model number but different actions - make sure you identify yours. Among sporter stocks for Mausers, you will find some that are inletted for a side safety (like a Parker Hale or a Santa Barbara Sporter), whereas many Husqvarna on the 98 action used the military style safety on the bolt. Some people then install an after market trigger with a side safety - needs alterations to the stock inletting to work. Like most stock things, do not expect a total "drop-in" - Mauser 98 action should probably be bedded solidly at rear action screw, under the flat and at the face of the recoil lug and perhaps 3/4" wide under the chamber - the top of magazine box should not touch the underside of the receiver. Between rear action screw and front of magazine mortice, should probably be "free air" - no contact with stock, certainly no "partial" or "uneven" contact.
Once you are in to it, several more improvements are possible, especially with heavy recoiling hunting rifles - remove the metal sleeve from the rear action hole in the stock - drill a hole from top (inside the inletting) rearward and downward to end up inside the pistol grip cap - do not break through - then slather in epoxy and insert a metal rod - redi-rod (all thread) will work - gives you a metal reinforced wrist, all hidden at both ends. Next area is the small section ahead of trigger and behind the magazine mortice - stock will often split there - Remington, since WWI, used a threaded pin across there - can see the brass dots. Winchester Model 70 often have a cross bolt there - just like at the recoil lug. Weatherby uses an internal reinforcement - metal piece shaped like a "U" - gouge or router out inside and set it in with epoxy - good support and totally hidden.
As far as ordering or selecting a stock, the FN actions on Husqvarna's were pretty standard Model 98's, although many Husqvarna's are built on 96 style actions - same model number but different actions - make sure you identify yours. Among sporter stocks for Mausers, you will find some that are inletted for a side safety (like a Parker Hale or a Santa Barbara Sporter), whereas many Husqvarna on the 98 action used the military style safety on the bolt. Some people then install an after market trigger with a side safety - needs alterations to the stock inletting to work. Like most stock things, do not expect a total "drop-in" - Mauser 98 action should probably be bedded solidly at rear action screw, under the flat and at the face of the recoil lug and perhaps 3/4" wide under the chamber - the top of magazine box should not touch the underside of the receiver. Between rear action screw and front of magazine mortice, should probably be "free air" - no contact with stock, certainly no "partial" or "uneven" contact.
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