repro '74 Sharps reefles

Klunk

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dammit-I want one of these things (45-70....why bother with the weird cartridges?)

What are the pros/cons of the makes available?

Why are ones in the EE several hundred more than new?

Pedersoli...?......what are the Chiappa (?) ones like that Marstar is sellin?
 
I can tell you the Pedersoli Sharps don't look as good in the stores as they do in the catalogs. Also, I've seen many with butt stocks and forends that don't match for some reason?

As of a shooter, I've herd one can be very good, but the next is not, and guys will go the extra step to buy an aftermarket target barrel.
 
re the ones on the EE, what may put up the price is the sights. Rear tang sights can run anywhere from $50 range on up to 3 or 400. The differences of seemingly small features can be significant when you are shooting 400 or 500 yards

I have to wonder when someone says that their barrel does not shoot well, how much is the shooter and how much is the barrel. There is quite a learning curve in loading lead bullets and black powder. Even seemingly little things like your choice of lube can impact your group size significantly

cheers mooncoon
 
Gold standard:- Big Timber Shiloh Sharps.

Pedersoli...look nice. Prone to mainspring breakage, plus I've heard the specs of the bore diameter can be off, like a 46-70. Not sure if they've sorted that out over the years or not.
 
I really want a Shiloh Sharps Quigley in 45/70. Long wait list unless you go through a shop that has 'ticket' in queue and pay another $200 USD. Then pay for importation...likely close to $5K when all is said and done.:(
 
Save your money and buy a shiloh or a c sharps, if you actually intend to do some real shooting with it. For the same money as a pedersoli you can buy a C sharps 1875, its not as pretty, but it has a hammer on the side and you'l always be able to get parts for it. All the sharps 1874's are expensive, your better off buying the base model from shiloh or C sharps, then you are buying a new fancy pedersoli. Theres no point in going to a gunshow to try to find a good cheap used pedersoli, everyone if come across is trying to sell them for shiloh prices.

You can also buy off the rack guns from shiloh and C sharps, in lots of popular configurations, most of em are in 40-65 or 45-70. If you buy off the rack there is no wait time.

All makes of sharps break springs, every one of them is a leaf spring. You really need to consider this because if you have a sharps, you will break the odd part, there are other guns that are more trouble free. Consider the winchester 1885 BPCR or the pedersoli rolling block, they're much less maitenance.

The difference between all italian makes and the two montana makers is when I break a part, I phone Shiloh and they send me a new one no charge, a fella wore out his shiloh barrel and they replaced that free of charge as well, there is no question when something gives up the ghost on a shiloh sharps it will be fixed on their dime. When your pedersoli breaks a spring or a pin, you have to buy the parts and good luck finding those in Canada, Shiloh parts also are drop in, with no fitting needed whatsoever. I wouldn't waste money on a Chiappa, IAB, Armi San Marco or chaparrel, the only way they manage to make a sharps for 3-7 hundred bucks less then a pedersolli is by cutting some serious corners.

The man who owns and operates shiloh also states the shilohs will take ruger #1 loads in their sharps, try pulling that off in an italian sharps.

If you havent shot the old style single shot ever, I would recommend your first gun be a rolling block, they're much more simpler, break fewer parts and the pedersoli rollers shoot very well. You wont be dealing with complex firing pins, lever springs breaking, higher cost of the 1874. The bad pedersolli barrel info I find suspect in agreement with mooncoon. Lots of fellas are shooting pedersolli barrels very well, with the odd exception most of your accuracy issues will be the shooters fault, you dont jam a factory shell in these guns and expect minute of angle. Nore can you dribble some lead scrap in a mould, jam the result it into a shell over some powder and call it good. These guns take time, practice and constant experimenting to shoot well, this holds true for the casting, reloading and shooting.

What works for a bolt gun with jacketed bullets at 2700 FPS and a 15X scope will not work with a single shot, 500 plus grain lead slug at 1200 FPS and arpeture sights. Most guys who try playing with these guns develop such a ridiculous flinch its no wonder the gun wont shoot.

Case in point, a near sighted buddy of mine outshoots me with a pedersolli roller more then I care to think about, but hes always experimenting and practicing more then I am.

Good call on the 45-70, shot prone over cross sticks with a 535 grain bullet, with no sissy pad and a steel but plate will be all most men can handle for an afternoons shooting. Even out of a 13 pound plus gun.

If you wish to do some of the longer distance shooting you need to also factor in the cost of a good tang sight (3-500 bucks), casting equipment (around a hundred bucks) and reloading gear if you dont reload already. Shooting these guns, especially the sharps 1874, is quite a labour in reloading, casting and not to mention the costs.

I shoot a shiloh long range express in 45-70 with MVA sights, shes expensive, takes too much of my time and effort to get it in the mood for shooting, sucks lead and powder out of the casting pot and canister like theres no tomorrow and will bite my collar bone and bruise me every time if I dont hold it just so.

But you'l find its worth it.
 
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I have the C Sharps model 1875 sport model. It is amazing when you hear the gong at 500 meters several seconds after the bullet is fired.

Load carefully and you can get good repeatable results.

As per a previous post, prices can jump drastically for little additions.
 
C. Sharps and Shiloh make great rifles. The 1874's are really nice. As far as the 1885's go the C. Sharps 1885's are nicer than the Winchester/Browning BPCR's. They are also far easier to disassemble and clean.

Sometimes you'll see people selling used rifles for more than the list price. This is because some people will pay more rather than wait. My most recent order with Shiloh was placed last year and it hasn't entered production yet. Add up to six months for importing ( that's how long my last single shot took ) and you are in for a wait :D. C. Sharps build times are lower however.

Chris.
 
Pedersoli are well made. The two sharps I owned shot better than I could hold. The US Sharps are pricy, use the difference for a good pair of front and back sights.
I currently shoot a Pedersoli 1873 Springfield, you would need to see it to appreciate the quality.
 
1874 Sharps

Ihave owned several Pedersoli 1874 Sharps in various configurations. All were well made.As Mooncoon said, there is an art to loading the cartridges, if you are shooting black powder. There is a book by Mike Venturini/Steve Garbe that will guide you to the correct combination. Google Mike Venturini and you will probably find it.
 
Some excellent advice here,no doubt in my mind that the Sharps are the Gold Standard, but for anyone who can't afford one, the Pedersolis are good value for you dollar. I owned a '74 Pedersoli and shot very well with it :D

Cheers nessy.
 
All makes of sharps break springs, every one of them is a leaf spring. You really need to consider this because if you have a sharps, you will break the odd part, there are other guns that are more trouble free.only way they manage to make a sharps for 3-7 hundred bucks less then a pedersolli is by cutting some serious corners.

I would not worry about breaking a flat spring; most of my BP rifles use them and I have almost never broken a mainspring in over 30 years of shooting them. What is a problem on both original Sharps and many reproductions is the firing pin. It is quite a dog leg sort of thing that I gather is prone to break in some of the Shilo / Farmingdale Sharps. I believe that in recent guns, it has been redesigned in two pieces to get around the problem. I made one firing pin of the original style and it taxes the very limits of my ability to make it

Sharpsfiringpin1.jpg



If you havent shot the old style single shot ever, I would recommend your first gun be a rolling block, they're much more simpler, break fewer parts

while the BP cartridge rifle that I shoot most is a rolling block (38-56) and the second is a trapdoor Springfield (38-55) my first choice if caliber were not an issue, would be a Sharps. Main reason being that the lock mechanism is completely isolated from fouling and the breach block can be easily removed for cleaning and finally the barrel can be cleaned from the back.

To put some perspective on my preferences, I currently have a rolling block, a highwall, a Sharps, a Martini, a Peabody, a Ballard, and a Snider. Perhaps worth mentioning that your cheapest practical alternative MIGHT be to buy an original rolling block in one of the obscure military calibers, recrown the muzzle and buy or make dies to load for it. The major weak point in that statement is that original military rolling blocks usually have crappy sights

cheers mooncoon
 
My advise to the OP's question would be:
If you money isn't a consideration and you are going treat it like a museum piece throughout it's life, Shilo or C Sharps will be your huckleberry. They will shoot good & hold their value as long as they aren't marked up.
If you plan on using the gun as they were intended and want one that will shoot just as good as the Montana Sharp's and not feel suicidal if it gets a ding or two, either a Pedersoli or Uberti is your best bet. Lots of other Italian replicas around but I wouldn't recommend any of them.

The Rolling Block advice given by others has merit as well. Good used Uberti's in 45-70 can be found usually in the 6-800 dollar range. frees up a lot of cash for sights, experimenting and load testing.

Be forewarned tho that once you start with these old bastards, they become a habit very quickly!!
 
I've been thru three Shilohs, one original 1874, several Rem rollers, repro and original, a beautiful original Winchester '85 in .40-60 and a bunch of other single shot stuff. Of them all, my best shooter was a Browning '85, .45-70, just an off-the-rack sporting gun. With that gun I could just stuff in a compressed load of 3f with a bullet on top, no wads, no fancy stuff at all. It just wanted to shoot, accurate way beyond any of the others, and way cheap compared to all that Montana stuff etc. Just something to think about.
 
I've been thru three Shilohs, one original 1874, several Rem rollers, repro and original, a beautiful original Winchester '85 in .40-60 and a bunch of other single shot stuff. Of them all, my best shooter was a Browning '85, .45-70, just an off-the-rack sporting gun. With that gun I could just stuff in a compressed load of 3f with a bullet on top, no wads, no fancy stuff at all. It just wanted to shoot, accurate way beyond any of the others, and way cheap compared to all that Montana stuff etc. Just something to think about.

I almost bought a Browning '85 , they are a sweet rifle, IIRC they were around $2200 before they went out of production. One of the members here has one and shoots well with it.

Cheers nessy.
 
FWIW, I have owned the Pedersoli, the C. Sharps and the Shiloh. I only still own one - the Big Timber Shiloh - and there's a reason why.

Accept no substitute.

It is, unfortunately, par for the course to pay retail or higher for used ones since the wait time from placing an order to getting a rifle is approximately 2 years these days.

That being said, used ones do come up.

As for model - real Sharps shooters shoot the 1863 ;) The way it was designed and intended to be used.
 
I almost bought a Browning '85 , they are a sweet rifle, IIRC they were around $2200 before they went out of production. One of the members here has one and shoots well with it.

Cheers nessy.

A shooting partner of mine put the cost of an African safari in the trust of his Browning 85 and never regreted it. His P.H. was very sceptical at first but by the end of the hunt he was trying to buy it.
 
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