Returning metal to "white"

r.fallon

r.fallon

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What is the best way to return metal parts to the "white"? Steel wool and oil? Since we are on the topic why would a military use white metal parts?
Corrosion and visual signiture come to mind when I see bare metal on military rifles.
 
Unfinished metal is very much the exception for the reasons that you mention. Blueing, browning (a variant of blueing), and more recently parkerizing are the traditional military finishes. What parts are you talking about? Generally polishing/buffing with an abrasive is the best way to remove finish and return metal to "the white". Be careful not to change parts fit or critical dimensions by overly energetic polishing/metal removal.
 
Sometimes the older guns had a high nickel content making them look almost white but quite corrosion resistant. Browning and Savage both had some .22's that were nickel steel. Had an old George Fisher Side by side 12 ga. w/exposed hammers that was high in nickel.
 
I have used 0000 steel wool and 400 grit sand paper to remove stubborn rust deposits. I have used the 0000 steel wool on gun bluing and it does not strip it off or remove the patina but some of the surface crude you don't want. A note of caution as sandpaper, even the 400 grit, will remove gun bluing. I have noticed it does not scratch the metal either. Same goes for steel wool.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I think that CLR will be spot on. I was asking because I have a few different mausers that have white parts. I also just picked up a m95 in rough shape that I wanted to restore. The butt plate, mag, and bolt are white but in poor condition.
Back to my original question about bare metal, for example why were the 1908 Brazil rifle and parts on K98s made in the white?
 
From what I have noticed, it was the simply the way they were made. The Brazilian 1908s are beautiful examples of the pre-war export model of the Gewehr 98.
 
You can use anything thats a rust remover. Careful with light abrasives as they will polish the metal. Depending on what you are working on, sometimes you want to get the metal back "in the gray."

I have found that using rust remover on items that are hot blued doesn't work too well.
 
Try evaporust. You will find it at Canadian Tire. It will remove all metal oxydation (including any blueing!!) without any abrasion... I would NOT use anything that will scratch, abrade, or grind off metal on a firearm...
 
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