revolver problem - help?

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finn_ethan

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Hello all,

I recently bought a used S&W 586 .357 Mag and have shot it twice at the range. Both times I've shot Am Eagle factory .357 mag/158grain about 100 rounds or so.

Every few rounds the shooter (me or a friend) will get a spray from the gun - as well as the people on either side at the range - enough that they notice and complain. It isn't target backsplash but something from the gun itself. I ususally get a small cut on my face that bleeds and the same on a knuckle.

First question. Is there something wrong? Or should I keep wearing my eye protection (always do) and just suck it up and stop being a sissy.

I'd hate to think that the cylinder doesn't line up with the barrel occasionally and something nasty is going on.

The gun is kept immaculately clean and there isn't any appreciable wear or other signs of malfunction. When I eject the brass it is always normal and doesn't show signs of a failure.

Ideas?
Thank you.
 
686

.... First thought is the cylinder is not lining up correctly,i.e. not indexing. It's not likely, but worthwhile anyway, to really check the pawl and beneath the extractor, and to make sure the extractor rod is screwed in tightly. Also, check the "hand" that pushes on the pawl that causes the cylinder to rotate for burrs/excess wear or signs of misalignment. Does the problem continue with different brands of ammunition ? A little gas/smoke around the front of the cylinder is fairly normal, but not chunks flying around with enough force to cause bleeding ! 'Forcing cone damaged ? Lock-up tight ? ..... Really these are pretty simple and reliable revolvers and seldom give problems ! ..... Good luck , and I hope it's something simple and easily corrected ! .... David K.
 
The timing sounds like it's out. The lead shavings are fron the bullet impacting the edge of the forcing cone.
take it to a good gunsmith.
 
I always #### the hammer then pull the trigger. Fantastically light trigger that way.

My own diagnosis... I've taken inert snap caps, cocked the hammer, and then checked the cylinder for play. There is slight rotational play, about 1mm, and slight play front to back in the cylinder. I don't know if this is normal. There isn't any sign of wear or burrs on any part of the gun to indicate an abnormality.

Is the forcing cone the rear most part of the barrel that is visible when the cylinder is in the open position? If so, there isn't wear or damage there indicating lead peeling off the bullet as it goes through.
 
finn_ethan said:
I always #### the hammer then pull the trigger. Fantastically light trigger that way.

My own diagnosis... I've taken inert snap caps, cocked the hammer, and then checked the cylinder for play. There is slight rotational play, about 1mm, and slight play front to back in the cylinder. I don't know if this is normal. There isn't any sign of wear or burrs on any part of the gun to indicate an abnormality.

Is the forcing cone the rear most part of the barrel that is visible when the cylinder is in the open position? If so, there isn't wear or damage there indicating lead peeling off the bullet as it goes through.
Click to expand...
Yes that is the forcing cone. I'd take it to a smith and get it checked over.
 
I've got a .44 mag with a similar problem, your timing is probably out, and can be fixed by a good gunsmith preferably someone who does work on revolvers, not someone who spends all day every day mounting scopes. Ask, its worth the difference, or ask on here saying your area and people can point you in the right direction.
 
You don't need to check anything, you can't fix this yourself... I would suggest taking to it or sending it to a Smith & Wesson warranty station or an experienced Smith & Wesson smith and have him inspect it. Simply tell him what you have in this thread.
 
Revolver should not be spraying lead that bad. Most likely a cylinder timing issue. Like Dennis Sorensen said, you can't fix this yourself. Get in touch with M. D. Charlton and Co. on Vancouver Island. They are a factory approved S&W service center. Murray Charlton has been working on S&W Firearms for years. Fortunately this likely won't cost a whole lot to fix. Just do a google search for M. D. Charlton And Co. for an address or Ph. number. Make sure you get a hold of the Vancouver Island location. Thats where they do the gunsmithing.
 
Thanks everyone...

I took it today to Barry at Bits of Pieces. He's pretty sure that it is ok and that it is just unburnt powder flying out. He'd mentioned that some powder is like little flat discs and that they don't always burn completely.

He's going to test the alignment and take it apart completely anyways. If it still happens after that it's time to change ammo.

Cheers.
 
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