Revolver: Smoothing/chamfering the cyls chambers edges so bullets don't snag.

drvrage

drvrage

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Hi Folks,


I have two ruger GP 100's one used in blue, and one brand new in stainless.

The used one has been "tuned" by previous owner (gunsmith?) so that the edges of each chamber in the cylinder are not as sharp. The result is that loading individual bullets and definitely loading with speedloaders is a smoother easier reloading process and things never get stuck.

The chamber edges on my new GP 100 are very sharp when I run my fingers across them. My speedloading has to be careful with a little wiggle to get everything seated.

I want to know what have other CGN'ers done to chamfer the chambers? Is this DIY, or gunsmith only, what tools and techniques have been used.

I see that Brownell's has a chamfering tool, but that looks like it could take away too much material. I just want a smooth but crisp edge. Can I polish the edge with a dremel and jewelers rouge etc...?
 
Chamfering

Chamfering is relativey easy with the tool from Brownell's as you do it by hand and only take off what you want. The trick is not to take too much off the star. While I did not do my revolvers, I watched it being done and would feel comfortable doing the operation myself. Even if you paid a gunsmith it is not very costly to have done.

Good luck.

Bernie
 
If you hold a folded strip of 1000 grit sandpaper on your finger, you can push the tip of your finger into the chamber mouth and cut the corners smooth - Mask the side of your gun with a rag and tape to make sure you don't damage the shine.
 
I've polished the chambers of my Cowboy Action rifles, shotguns (12 gauge flexhone) and polished the chambers of my revolvers with Flexhones in .357 & .44 caliber that I purchased from Brownells, along with the oil required. Go to their web site and buy the ones for rifle, as they can also be used in pistols. Great piece of kit.
 
If you read the original thread, the originator was asking about polishing part of the cylinder. I explained how I polished the cylinder, what part of that did you miss??
 
anchor3593 said:
If you hold a folded strip of 1000 grit sandpaper on your finger, you can push the tip of your finger into the chamber mouth and cut the corners smooth - Mask the side of your gun with a rag and tape to make sure you don't damage the shine.
Click to expand...

Assuming the older blued one is just a slightly rounded polished corner then I'd do exactly what anchor says. This will round off the sharp edge but in a way that is "self limiting" as long as you make any sort of effort at all to do the job evenly. It'll take off just the corner with very little effect on the rest but I'd mask it as suggested to avoid any scuffs from the other tag end that you're holding.

Another hint that isn't commonly known. The BACK side of the 1000 paper rubbed on the edges the same way as the front sandpaper side will put close to a mirror polish on those edges. Just fold the paper so it's inside out and do the same operation again.

For a job of this sort power tools are definetly out and even a hand cutting tool is overkill. You're only wanting to polish off that edge and some simple hand power with the 1000 grit wet or dry paper used wet with some light oil is the hot ticket. You can find the 1000 grit paper at most better hardware stores and certainly anywhere that sells autobody paint supplies.

And since abrasives are involved you WILL want to remove the cylinder from the gun and following the polishing with the sandpaper and oil you WILL want to disassemble the ejector and clean it all very well with hot soapy water and then dry and oil right away.
 
Garand said:
If you read the original thread, the originator was asking about polishing part of the cylinder. I explained how I polished the cylinder, what part of that did you miss??
Click to expand...

Hmmmmmm, here's the original thread....

drvrage said:
Hi Folks,


I have two ruger GP 100's one used in blue, and one brand new in stainless.

The used one has been "tuned" by previous owner (gunsmith?) so that the edges of each chamber in the cylinder are not as sharp. The result is that loading individual bullets and definitely loading with speedloaders is a smoother easier reloading process and things never get stuck.

The chamber edges on my new GP 100 are very sharp when I run my fingers across them. My speedloading has to be careful with a little wiggle to get everything seated.

I want to know what have other CGN'ers done to chamfer the chambers? Is this DIY, or gunsmith only, what tools and techniques have been used.

I see that Brownell's has a chamfering tool, but that looks like it could take away too much material. I just want a smooth but crisp edge. Can I polish the edge with a dremel and jewelers rouge etc...?
Click to expand...


Your 'defence' is a bit thin......:rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the help guys. Garand, I did indeed mean just the edges of the chambers so that I can easily slide ammo in without any snags, not the whole chamber. I think I'll try disassembling it and using hand power and 1000 grit sandpaper. I am not worried about hurting resale value as I believe selling guns breaks the 11th commandment. I buy them, end of story.

Thanks for all the help.
 
Since the work will be done on the stainless with even a hint of care and some masking tape the only place that anyone would see the evidence of your "abuse" will be on the very edges of the holes. And I'll bet that not even 1 in 10 would notice it unless they had the same gun with the same problem.
 
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