Revolvers
- Thread starter transporteRR
- Start date
thenewbieglockguy
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Ontario (GTA)
Stainless steel is a PITA to keep clean… Thus why I am getting a TRR8.
pisces-guy
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- West Kelowna, B.C.
The GP100 is a solid, low maintenance revolver. However, you can get a spring kit from Brownells that will give you a 2 lb lighter trigger return spring (8lb), and 3 hammer springs: 9, 10, and 12 lb.. The 9lb gives you the lightest trigger pull but can give you the odd light strike. The 10lb is the best choice as it lightens the trigger pull and is reliable. They also include a 12lb hammer spring which is 2 lbs. lighter than the stock 14lb spring, but is guaranteed to fire any sort of ammo in a critical defence situation, but is probably not the way to go for anything but a carry gun in the US. Along with the 8 lb trigger return spring and the 10 lb hammer spring, if you do some polishing and shim the hammer and trigger so it's precise, then you'll have a top quality revolver for a good price. Triggershims.com has the hammer and trigger springs, and even cylinder shims if you want to go all out, for a good price and ship to Canada. Their website has a good video on it to show you how to install the shims in your Ruger GP100 or SP-101.
Appreciate it
If the carbon on the front of the cylinder bugs you it will come off with a little Flitz and a cloth, just go easy.
It doesn't bug me so I just leave it.
If you take revolver newbies to the range TELL them not to slam the cylinder shut with the "wrist flick" that they see in every freaking Hollywood movie. It's bad for the crane.
It doesn't bug me so I just leave it.
If you take revolver newbies to the range TELL them not to slam the cylinder shut with the "wrist flick" that they see in every freaking Hollywood movie. It's bad for the crane.
Yea thats the 1st thing i tell em after the usual safety stuff
Recommended tools are as follows:
Hollow ground screwdriver(s)/bits to correctly fit screws.
Extractor rod tool. You would either need one each of the Brownells large S&W and Ruger tools or the Power Custom universal tool (also available from Brownells).
S&W rebound slide spring tool
Non-marring mallet. This is used to tap the grip frame to loosen the sideplate on the S&Ws after the screws have been removed. Do not pry the sideplate.
For the most part, not much is required for routine maintenance. Make sure that you don't have too much crud buildup on the front of the cylinder or under the extractor. A drop of oil each in the frame hammer/trigger openings and the yoke pivot points is sufficient.
Detail stripping is not normally required. In the rare event that you get the urge or need to do so, clean the internals thoroughly and lightly lubricate the contact points of any moving parts (I like grease for this purpose) prior to reassembly.
Hollow ground screwdriver(s)/bits to correctly fit screws.
Extractor rod tool. You would either need one each of the Brownells large S&W and Ruger tools or the Power Custom universal tool (also available from Brownells).
S&W rebound slide spring tool
Non-marring mallet. This is used to tap the grip frame to loosen the sideplate on the S&Ws after the screws have been removed. Do not pry the sideplate.
For the most part, not much is required for routine maintenance. Make sure that you don't have too much crud buildup on the front of the cylinder or under the extractor. A drop of oil each in the frame hammer/trigger openings and the yoke pivot points is sufficient.
Detail stripping is not normally required. In the rare event that you get the urge or need to do so, clean the internals thoroughly and lightly lubricate the contact points of any moving parts (I like grease for this purpose) prior to reassembly.
Thank you kindly
If you're not changing out any springs all your cleaning and lubricating of the action can be done with no more than removal of the grips. The access through the mainspring area and the other various openings gives you lots of room to flush the insides out with a cleaning solvent and to flush with a spray oil to both lubricate and protect against corrosion.
Using a spray oil means a lot of excess though. So I prefer to go with the popular cheap and easy to make Ed's Red mixture. Google it if you don't know what this is. Because it's a soup of oil and solvents it means it cleans and drains away well to flush out the gunk. Then the solvents dry to leave a thin light oil film to protect and lubricate. And for revolvers "thin and light" is exactly what the doctor ordered.
I do find that the cylinders eventually bind up on the arbors even with externally applied flushing and oil. So sooner or later you want to take the crane and cylinder out of the frame and break them down to allow for a detail cleaning. And that's where the good fitting screwdriver comes in and the special tool for the Ruger.
Note that on the S&W the knurled end of the ejector is left handed. So "tighten" to loosen, right? There's not a lot of metal fighting back what with two small pins and a very small keyway. So fill the cylinder with spent brass to lock the parts together before you twist the end of the ejector rod loose. If it's tight then grip it with a leather or thick cardboard pad and a pair of pliers. And when you tighten it you only need to tighten a pinch more than you can by finger pressure alone. Don't torque down on it! With the pliers and padding you just need to go an additional 1/10 to 1/8 turn. It's a matter of 4 to 6 additional ounces of torque with two fingertips on the cylinder. That's all you need and all you want. If it was tight to get loose don't make the mistake of thinking it needs to be that tight when you put it back on.
Other than that feed well with lots of ammo to avoid starving those lovely beasts...
Using a spray oil means a lot of excess though. So I prefer to go with the popular cheap and easy to make Ed's Red mixture. Google it if you don't know what this is. Because it's a soup of oil and solvents it means it cleans and drains away well to flush out the gunk. Then the solvents dry to leave a thin light oil film to protect and lubricate. And for revolvers "thin and light" is exactly what the doctor ordered.
I do find that the cylinders eventually bind up on the arbors even with externally applied flushing and oil. So sooner or later you want to take the crane and cylinder out of the frame and break them down to allow for a detail cleaning. And that's where the good fitting screwdriver comes in and the special tool for the Ruger.
Note that on the S&W the knurled end of the ejector is left handed. So "tighten" to loosen, right? There's not a lot of metal fighting back what with two small pins and a very small keyway. So fill the cylinder with spent brass to lock the parts together before you twist the end of the ejector rod loose. If it's tight then grip it with a leather or thick cardboard pad and a pair of pliers. And when you tighten it you only need to tighten a pinch more than you can by finger pressure alone. Don't torque down on it! With the pliers and padding you just need to go an additional 1/10 to 1/8 turn. It's a matter of 4 to 6 additional ounces of torque with two fingertips on the cylinder. That's all you need and all you want. If it was tight to get loose don't make the mistake of thinking it needs to be that tight when you put it back on.
Other than that feed well with lots of ammo to avoid starving those lovely beasts...
If you're not changing out any springs all your cleaning and lubricating of the action can be done with no more than removal of the grips. The access through the mainspring area and the other various openings gives you lots of room to flush the insides out with a cleaning solvent and to flush with a spray oil to both lubricate and protect against corrosion.
Using a spray oil means a lot of excess though. So I prefer to go with the popular cheap and easy to make Ed's Red mixture. Google it if you don't know what this is. Because it's a soup of oil and solvents it means it cleans and drains away well to flush out the gunk. Then the solvents dry to leave a thin light oil film to protect and lubricate. And for revolvers "thin and light" is exactly what the doctor ordered.
I do find that the cylinders eventually bind up on the arbors even with externally applied flushing and oil. So sooner or later you want to take the crane and cylinder out of the frame and break them down to allow for a detail cleaning. And that's where the good fitting screwdriver comes in and the special tool for the Ruger.
Note that on the S&W the knurled end of the ejector is left handed. So "tighten" to loosen, right? There's not a lot of metal fighting back what with two small pins and a very small keyway. So fill the cylinder with spent brass to lock the parts together before you twist the end of the ejector rod loose. If it's tight then grip it with a leather or thick cardboard pad and a pair of pliers. And when you tighten it you only need to tighten a pinch more than you can by finger pressure alone. Don't torque down on it! With the pliers and padding you just need to go an additional 1/10 to 1/8 turn. It's a matter of 4 to 6 additional ounces of torque with two fingertips on the cylinder. That's all you need and all you want. If it was tight to get loose don't make the mistake of thinking it needs to be that tight when you put it back on.
Other than that feed well with lots of ammo to avoid starving those lovely beasts...
Wrote all that down, yee i got 300 rounds to get me thru the weekend.
handofzeus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Trout Creekish Ontario.
I personally allow carbon to build up on the topstrap a bit. I feel that it helps to protect the metal from excessive flame cutting. If it gets removed during cleaning accidentally, oh well, but I do like to let it build up a bit. Same with the barrel face. As long as there's enough room for the cylinder to turn without obstruction I just leave a bit of carbon buildup.
