Rifle bedding question

Decker9

Decker9

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
43   0   0
Hey everyone, I'm fixing up a couple rifles I have here, a pre 64 (.375 h&h) and a Brno zg47 (280 rem). I'm wondering if anyone can shed some light on that third screw/lug on these rifles. I have read that it is ok to leave that third screw out completely, and float the barrel from the recoil lug forward, is this a safe and common thing to do? (Leaving that screw out). When it comes to bedding these rifles, is a guy suppose to bed behind that lug? Or just leave it float? Particularly on the .375, with that much recoil, I'm not sure that leaving that third screw out is such a good idea?

I appreciate any advise you fellas my have on bedding these particular rifles. Thank you.
 
Pre 64 model 70 winchester; the barrel boss screw can be left out, some say they are more accurate that way? Bedding the rifle, depends on condition if the rifle is VG to EXC condition I would not bed it as collectors prefer them all original. If you bed it the recoil lug is bedded with one layer of tape on the forward face and the edges, the rear face is left as is, but coated with release agent or heavy wax. yes the wood has to be releived at the rear of the lug to allow approx 1/8" layer of bedding compound.
enjoy.
 
I've got a couple of 550 Safaris. What I did with mine was to bed the action, relieve behind the tang, install crossbolts in front of the mag box and bed the barrel up to the F block. The F block
Is now a permanent fixture. The last bit of
barrel ahead of that is free floated. Nothing broke in several thousand shots.

The .375 is now rebarrelled to . 375 Weatherby and the barrel doesn't have a foreward lug. Nothing has fallen off
it yet.
 
b72471 said:
Pre 64 model 70 winchester; the barrel boss screw can be left out, some say they are more accurate that way? Bedding the rifle, depends on condition if the rifle is VG to EXC condition I would not bed it as collectors prefer them all original. If you bed it the recoil lug is bedded with one layer of tape on the forward face and the edges, the rear face is left as is, but coated with release agent or heavy wax. yes the wood has to be releived at the rear of the lug to allow approx 1/8" layer of bedding compound.
enjoy.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply, the pre 64 has been altered, it has a custom wood stock, that only had a little bedding behind the recoil lug, the inletting was done nicely, everything fits like a glove. The reason I am looking at bedding this rifle, there is a crack behind the recoil lug, and another between the magazine and trigger hole. My plan is to bed the whole action and floor plate, in hopes of strengthening the stock. I was unsure of how far to take my bedding up the barrel channel tho, with that last lug.

I'm guessing, a guy would be ok to leave that lug floating? Even on a heavier recoil rifle? (It kicks like a stallion) it would certainly make the job a lot easier if I could go that route.

Thanks again.
 
Dogleg said:
I've got a couple of 550 Safaris. What I did with mine was to bed the action, relieve behind the tang, install crossbolts in front of the mag box and bed the barrel up to the F block. The F block
Is now a permanent fixture. The last bit of
barrel ahead of that is free floated. Nothing broke in several thousand shots.

The .375 is now rebarrelled to . 375 Weatherby and the barrel doesn't have a foreward lug. Nothing has fallen off
it yet.
Click to expand...

Hey there dogleg, excuse me for my lack of knowledge here lol, what do you mean by the "F block"?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom