rifle chokes??

6.5x55swm

6.5x55swm

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just wondering how well these work? I was thinking about a rifle choke installed on my cil 20ga for a bush deer/bear 75yds would be a very long shot where I hunt and a break action with a 22" barrel would be very handy in the woods
 
With the rifled choke, do you find improvement with regular Foster style hollow based slugs? I was under the impression they were designed for solid slugs like the Brenneke fix-wad types, Remington Buck-hammer, and sabots.
 
I'm in for some schooling on these as well. What types of slugs would be best to shoot through a rifled choke?
 
In my experience with my limited and informal testing of rifled choke tube vs skeet choke tube were rather disapointing.
I tested winchester 1 oz 2 34"
Remington 1 oz 2 3/4"
Federal 11/4 oz 3"
Hornady sst 300 gr sabot
.735" round ball
Lee 1oz drive key slug
The only improved groups I got with the rifled choke tube were with the sst ( obviously)
And the .735" round ball.
Groups were slightly better on average with the foster slugs but nothing dramatic. The choke tube got leaded up pretty bad as well with the soft foster slugs.
I found while the rifled choke tube stabilized the sabot slug when I shot them at 125 yards they were starting to keyhole.
Of course these were very informal tests with my particular shotgun (remington 870 rifle sight 21" barrel) and my particular choke tube ( remington brand flush )
Best way to tell is buy a bunch of ammo and go test for yourself with your gun
 
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That's some pretty good information right there, ginsingjones. I looked into the Hornady SST sabots, and they say for fully rifled barrels only. I guess you just ignored that just for the purpose of the test?

Our hunting instructor told us that the average deer kill is less than 15yards, so I don't think I would be too worried if they start to tumble at 125 yards. I've never been out deer hunting (yet) but if they were accurate to 100yds I would think that would be acceptable?
 
I still cant see how 2" of twist on a projectile at the point it leaves the barrel travelling at full speed does much. The physics of it doesn't make sense to me.
 
I had read reports of them working well to 100 yards through a rifled choke. Also they were the only sabot slug available where I live when I went to test.
If you are hunting under 100 yards I wouldnt waste my money on them unless you have a rifled barrel.
Go pick up a few boxes of federal truball and try them.
They have been the most accurate slugs through my shotguns.
I dont know about what your instructor was trying to feed you there. Most game under 200 yards I believe but not 15 yards. Unless that was a typo
 
ginsingjones said:
I had read reports of them working well to 100 yards through a rifled choke. Also they were the only sabot slug available where I live when I went to test.
If you are hunting under 100 yards I wouldnt waste my money on them unless you have a rifled barrel.
Go pick up a few boxes of federal truball and try them.
They have been the most accurate slugs through my shotguns.
I dont know about what your instructor was trying to feed you there. Most game under 200 yards I believe but not 15 yards. Unless that was a typo[/QUOT

That was the average deer kill. That takes into account the bowhunters as well. I did not actually fact check that, however.
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dilly said:
I still cant see how 2" of twist on a projectile at the point it leaves the barrel travelling at full speed does much. The physics of it doesn't make sense to me.
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Yeah, the engineer in me doesn't get it either. However, a rifled choke seems to be my only option at this point since I've got an Invector Plus barrel...Haven't been able to find much in the way of rifled barrels for a BPS NWTF edition...
 
It only takes a couple of inches of travelling in rifling to impart rotation to the projectile. Why would it require feet of travel in rifling to impart rotation?

I know if you shoot shot through a rifled choke you get a terrible scattered pattern... the same as through a fully rifled barrel.
 
Would it not then be easier to get a "slug" choke (I don't know which to use off the top of my head as I'm new, but let's say it's a "cylinder" choke) and shoot rifled slugs instead?
 
6.5x55swm said:
just wondering how well these work? I was thinking about a rifle choke installed on my cil 20ga for a bush deer/bear 75yds would be a very long shot where I hunt and a break action with a 22" barrel would be very handy in the woods
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Get some challenger 20ga slugs and use your cyl or imp cyl choke and youre good to go. Think they are 20$ for 10. They are plenty accurate for deer at 75yrds and hit hard.
 
n8dh said:
Would it not then be easier to get a "slug" choke (I don't know which to use off the top of my head as I'm new, but let's say it's a "cylinder" choke) and shoot rifled slugs instead?
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Approach it like patterning a shotgun, start with open cylinder and work your way up to full. You will see a difference in poa/poi with each choke, one or two will usually be better than the rest for accuracy overall. I find Mod chokes give me the best shot patterns as well as really good slug accuracy, one gun the full choke works the best. Different brands of ammo can change your results through the same choke.
 
n8dh said:
Yeah, the engineer in me doesn't get it either. However, a rifled choke seems to be my only option at this point since I've got an Invector Plus barrel...Haven't been able to find much in the way of rifled barrels for a BPS NWTF edition...
Click to expand...

2" revolver barrels have no issues with stabilizing a bullet, so the length of rifling alone shouldn't be an issue.

guntech said:
It only takes a couple of inches of travelling in rifling to impart rotation to the projectile. Why would it require feet of travel in rifling to impart rotation?

I know if you shoot shot through a rifled choke you get a terrible scattered pattern... the same as through a fully rifled barrel.
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Perhaps the acceleration can cause issues - in a normal rifle the bullet hits the rifling before it has accelerated a lot, whereas a slug is at full speed when it hits the rifling and gets forced to spin?

n8dh said:
Would it not then be easier to get a "slug" choke (I don't know which to use off the top of my head as I'm new, but let's say it's a "cylinder" choke) and shoot rifled slugs instead?
Click to expand...

In case you weren't aware, rifled slugs aren't rifled to impart spin. They are rifled to allow the slug to go through chokes of various sizes without issue. If you are aware of that and are simply suggesting foster slugs should be accurate enough at the stated ranges, then you can disregard this.

OP at the ranges you're talking about I see no reason to not just run a smooth bore. 6" groups or better at 100yds is not an unreasonable expectation for slugs through a smooth bore if you've got decent sights and the gun likes that particular load. Don't get me wrong, if you've already got a rifled barrel or choke then no harm in that, but I wouldn't be running out to buy anything until I determined what my gun could do with a box of federal Blue box slugs at 75yds.
 
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