Rifle Primer experiment

H4831

H4831

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When someone wants to know how to get an unwanted live primer from a case, some of the answers will be to deactivate it with water. Wondering if this would work, I seated a CCI, large rifle primer in a 45-70 case. I then filled the case with water. After an hour and a half, I dumped out the water, chambered the case in my Marlin and pulled the trigger. Bang! It fired in a normal manner.
Of course, we know that oil will deactivate a primer, because many experts have written on these threads that putting a drop of oil on the primer will stop it from firing. In fact, more than one writer has stated they will not handle live primers with their bare hands, because oil from their hands may contaminate the primer.
Oh well, might as well try it. I again seated a standard CCI, large rifle primer in a 45-70 case, then covered it by nearly ½ inch of Hoppes Gun Oil. After an hour, I poured the oil from the case, wiped out some excess oil and chambered it in the Marlin. Pulled the trigger, and Bang!
If there is a moral to this story, maybe it is that having a skeptical mind isn't so bad, afterall.
 
i have found that primers have to be seated in oil for at least 24 hours. i have tired them after 12 hours and still got a pop. i would estimate about 1/4 power.
 
Great Info, thanks for having nothing better to do. HEHE

Like stated in the original thread I believe you are refering to, I just pop the live primers out with my die, put back in a primer box and use it later on.
 
CyaN1de said -- --- Like stated in the original thread I believe you are refering to, I just pop the live primers out with my die, put back in a primer box and use it later on.
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I have also done this for years. I seat the primers with a heavy duty press, so if one goes crooked it sometimes gets mashed up pretty good, but I have never set one off in the press. However, as you know, when the subject comes up here, there are sure a lot of different methods people use to get the live primer out.
 
Did you try oiling the primer then seating it in the case and dropping the firing pin on it?
I'll go see if I can do this right now.
I feel that the oil may be a bit to viscus to adequately drain through the flash hole and past the anvil to give decent contamination of the primer.
I'll giver her 5 mins and drop the cap.
Standby
 
If you need some Primers for a delaborated Ammo. Heat them up in a Pan. They`re popping like popcorn. I did, it works.
 
Yup that killed it, 5 mins with Hoppes oil right direct on the primer, and all I got was the slightest whisp of smoke, not even a decernable pop, or snap, other than the firing pin dropping.
I wonder how a real light oil like Kroil would do when dropped into a primed case.

Test number 2 coming up.
 
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Alas, a nice light oil like Kroil poured into a pre primed case, and a 5 min. sit, and all I got was the slightest amount of smoke inside the case.

As I suspected the restricted opening of the flashole with the anvil of the primer further restricting it's opening, will not adequately allow a thick oil like Hoppes to migrate to the priming compound.

The previously busted myth is now confrmed.

Some days you just gotta think about what's going on, and what might be holding back the desired result.
 
H4831 said:
However, as you know, when the subject comes up here, there are sure a lot of different methods people use to get the live primer out.
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Yup :D

I have crushed them in sideways with my Lee Hand Priming tool, albeit, not in far enough to be able to get the case out of the shell holder...that required some serious MacGyvering to get it out.

I wonder if the surface tension of the water would stop it from getting to the primer thru the flash hole like the viscosity of the oil may have done....anyone want to try a drop of soap in the water to see if it would then get thru? ........ Lefty? :D
 
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H4831 said:
CyaN1de said -- --- Like stated in the original thread I believe you are refering to, I just pop the live primers out with my die, put back in a primer box and use it later on.
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I have also done this for years. I seat the primers with a heavy duty press, so if one goes crooked it sometimes gets mashed up pretty good, but I have never set one off in the press. However, as you know, when the subject comes up here, there are sure a lot of different methods people use to get the live primer out.
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Yup i do the same!!!
 
I don't really care about following up on deactivating primers, because I don't have any reason to. I just have a curious mind and had a few hours to spare earlier today. I think I have read where modern (at least ten years old, mine) were supposed to be impervious to water.
I actually shook the case after the water was in it, which should have broken the tension scum.
 
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Thanks for the test Bruce. Personally, I just push them out with my press like any spent primer. I haven't had any go off either. Actually, I nearly cut a few in half with a Lee Pro 1000 progressive a few times. Nothing hapened.

I had to throw away about 50 live ones that I forgot about in my primer tool. I forgot what they were. I filled one of those juice containers with water. The ones with the screw off lid. I put them in there. They've been there since last fall and the water is a very opaque rust colour. They're not in the way where they are, so I'm just going to leave them alone. I'll chuck them in the garbage someday :D
 
Good test. Three Myths busted at once!

1. You can't remove live primers in a press, you must deactivate first
2. Soaking in water deactivates primers
3. Soaking in oil really deactivates primers

All False.

I've done the same thing in the past:

Soaking in water or oil does not deactivate primers - at least not in my (our) experience. I immersed primed cases in water and others in light machine oil for a week. I removed them and tried to fire them:

- immediately - dead
- after 24 hrs - all fired

Here's the thing: it is safe to remove live primers with a decapper. I've done a few hundred, 65 just the other night. Zero went bang. Just remove the darn things in your press using the same precautions you always use (eye protection, clean loading desk, etc.). I know, I know, it could happen. If so then what? I've had two primers go off priming with a Lee Loader - "pop then YAWN".

Berdan - do not use the RCBS tool (obviously, but DUH). Fire them off first then use the RCBS tool, or use the hydraulic method.
 
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Try WD40 on your next test. Spray the pimer well, let it sit for 24/48 hrs, then try it. I have heard this is the oil to use, as it is thin enough to penetrate the primer, and deactivate it. I have not used this method myself, but have wanted to try it, and test it. Cases that are bad, with live primers in them, just go into the club's dud box for me. Another one to try is Rem penetrating oil. Let us know how you make out! Cheers!:wave:
 
When it is so easy to just fire the primers off in the gun, why bother with any oil or water? Why have any mess to clean up?
I have had misfires from spray case lubes, enough that I don't use them anymore.
 
Dogleg said:
When it is so easy to just fire the primers off in the gun, why bother with any oil or water? Why have any mess to clean up?
I have had misfires from spray case lubes, enough that I don't use them anymore.
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I've got a few neighbours that might get excited if I did it in my garage, and the range I shoot at is just over an hour drive. When I go out there, EVERYTHING is loaded and ready to go :D
 
blacksmithden said:
I've got a few neighbours that might get excited if I did it in my garage, and the range I shoot at is just over an hour drive. When I go out there, EVERYTHING is loaded and ready to go :D
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Basement works too. Shoving the muzzle down into some old carpet muffles the sound right down. Honestly though, If I'm not doing anything illegal I don't care what my neighbors think.
 
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