Rifle Woodwork

44fordy

44fordy

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Hi guys,

Do gunsmiths refinish wooden stocks as well, or are they more specific to mechanics and bluing?

The wood on my Rem 600 .308 has seen better days. Clear coat is all coming off and whatnot?

I'm in Ottawa area, does anyone know if Jason Spencer does refinishing?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Some do, some don't I suppose you'll just have to call and ask. But refinishing a stock is super easy to do yourself. $5 on sandpaper, and $5 on a bottle of linseed oil, tun oil or tru oil and some time.
 
prosper said:
Some do, some don't I suppose you'll just have to call and ask. But refinishing a stock is super easy to do yourself. $5 on sandpaper, and $5 on a bottle of linseed oil, tun oil or tru oil and some time.
Click to expand...

I suppose I could sand it right down and put a few coats of clear coat on it.

What about thecheckering though? Can't really sand that I guess?
 
clearcoat - nyet! Oil! A properly done oil finish is much more attractive.

For the checkering - paint stripper will take off the urethane finish
 
"Circa 1850" heavy body paint stripper is one of several strippers that will remove the original finish...not just on the checkering, but the whole stock. Don't try to sand it until you've got almost all of the old finish removed, and as you've mentioned, don't touch the checkering with sandpaper. Once you've got nice clean wood, seal it, barrel channel, and all with a 50/50 tung oil/mineral spirits mixture, then begin to sand in several coats of the same mixture, allowing a couple days to dry between coats. Work your way from 320 to 400 or 600 grit depending on what kind of finish you want. Another simpler option, once you have clean wood is just to apply a few thin coats of Tru-oil.
 
use an old toothbrush when you are removing the old finish from the checkering so as not to dull the points. Also if using truoil, just buy the kit as it has most everything you need to do the stock. Use another clean tooth brush to apply the truoil or other oil finish sparingly so that you do not load up the valleys in the checkering or have an excess amount of finish that will run out an ruin the appearance of the stock.

Or if you do not have the patience/time to do this yourself, contact a smith and find a hundred dollar bill.
 
after stripping the finish and BEFORE you do any sanding, cover the checkering with either masking tape aor better yet, duct tape, to protect it from the sandpaper. bearhunter
 
Use a good commercial stripper first and when it comes time to sand, go easy. There's nothing worse than metal overhanging the wood by an eighth of an inch.
 
I find the best sander for gunstock refinishing is the Black&Decker Mouse sander it easy to get into all the nooks and crannys,but if you are not careful you can sand a stock out of proportion pretty easy.If it is a valuble stock you might just want to send it to WrongWay as a woodworker he would have to proper equipment and knowledge to do you a good job
 
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