rimfire accuracy

[fuzzy]

Sounds like the OP is zeroed at 50 and holding over for the 100 yd shots. He is also using only a 4x scope. Pretty hard to get a tight group under those conditions. However, the BTVS is inherently pretty accurate, at least mine is.[/QUOTE]


in regards to this what would you recomend? new scope? if so what then? also how can i make this rifle a little "smoother", even when freshly oiled i can hear the mechanisms working when i squeeze the trigger and the action of the bolt is kinda stiff. i am a newbie and want to soak this stuff up.

thanks

fuzzy

 

[kombayotch]

Target scopes have exposed turrets. You just dial in the elevation for the distance you want. No different than centerfire.

 

[Grizzlypeg]

I am fairly new to rimfire, so I googled how much the bullet drop is at 100/200, 100 was 8 inches, 200 was like yaaards, at my range I cannot aim that high, there is a barrier, I am also wondering how it is possible to adjust a scope to that distance with such a huge drop - or do you guys just aim high, lol?

Explain more please.

I have a Bushnell tactical on my 10/22 and it has large externally adjustable windage and elevation knobs. I zero my gun at 50 yards then dial in the following:
75 yards plus 2
100 yard plus 6 (or 5 for 36 grain bullets)
now it gets a little more difficult
125 yard plus 10
150 plus 14
175 plus 18
200 plus 23

My old chinese knock off of a Leupold would dial up to plus 23 from where I zero'd it. Now my lastest scope a Bushnell 3200 5-15x40AO won't quite reach plus 23 from where I zero'd it. I end up using on of the lower mildots to aim at 200 yards.

Its a lot of fun to have steel pop us targets at various distance and simply turn the elevation to the right setting and hit it right on. But as I've said earlier, for me, things start to get dicey around 125 yards. Sometimes I can hit stuff at 200, other times I'm hopeless. Still cheap fun.

 

[JimV]

in regards to this what would you recomend? new scope? if so what then? also how can i make this rifle a little "smoother", even when freshly oiled i can hear the mechanisms working when i squeeze the trigger and the action of the bolt is kinda stiff.

The right scope is a very personal choice. Everyone has their opinions and favourites. What works for one person may not be ideal for someone else. Some guys I know find Tasco 6-24x varminter scopes (cost about $100) perfectly satisfactory. I can't see the bullet holes clearly enough with them. So accept any recommendations about specific brands/models with caution.

If possible, ask other shooters at the range if you can look through their scopes. This will give you an idea of the magnification you need and the characteristics of the various models. Also, do some research on the subject. There are a lot of factors to consider, e.g. type of reticle, type of turrets, adjustment increments, eye relief, tube diameter, objective lens size, brightness, etc. It's a big subject, but don't be discouraged. With a little experience and reading you'll soon be up to speed. There is a lot of information on this board and elsewhere on the net.

In general, I'd look for a scope capable of 24x. A variable power scope will give you more flexibility if you also want to shoot at shorter ranges. I wouldn't go for higher power unless it's a high quality model. The resolution on most cheaper scopes is usually poor once you go beyond 24x. Also look for an adjustable objective lens (AO). That allows you to focus on the target at various distances.

Once you decide what you want, check the EE Optics section here. Good used scopes can often be found for 50-80% of the new price (and no tax!)

Try to get a good rest. If the gun isn't held steady you'll never get a good group. Most semi-serious shooters I know use a heavy, adjustable metal front rest and a rear bag. However, an inexpensive compromise would be an MTM Predator rest. They're made of sturdy plastic and cost about $55. If you later graduate to something better they still come in handy for gun cleaning work and for days when you don't want to drag around 15 lbs of metal and sand with you.

I can't help you with smoothing the action. I tend to leave the metal parts of my guns alone. Hopefully someone else might have some useful advice on that subject.

 

[Eagleye]

For a dedicated Bench rimfire, a 24X Leupold is great, but I believe the 36X is better. I have heard some good things about the 36X Weaver, but have not looked through one to make a personal comment. The 6.5-20 Leupolds are seen on many rifles as well, but you need the EFR type to shoot at 50 meters or less.

An adjustable objective lens is absolutely mandatory. For the long range work, a tapered base is the answer, with 25 moa being about right for a rimfire being used at 200 meters. If you are using a one-piece base, it can be shimmed at the rear to get the 25 or more moa of extra elevation.

Do NOT shim only the rear base of two-base systems, you will damage your scope!

Fixed power scopes generally have a bit more internal adjustment than do variables, so that is something to consider as well. Buying a cheapie 6-24X is a waste of time IMHO, as has been mentioned already.

The reticule is a matter of personal choice, but I am sold on fine x-hairs for BR shooting [very fine duplex is also OK], or possibly a one-eighth minute dot. If you like mil-dots, fill your boots, but they are not for this shooter in any bench game. A solid rest is also a very important item.

Several heavy metal front rests with various sandbag arrangements are available. Again, your personal choices are fine, just don't expect a $75.00 rest to perform like a $450.00 one.

Most top-end target rifles have pretty smooth actions as they come. If your rifle feels a bit rough, then you should avail yourself of some "Clover" very fine engine valve lapping compound, coat the bolt outer surfaces sparingly and work the action 100+ times. Clean it up thoroughly [This is VERY important] then try it. If it still feels a bit rough, repeat as necessary. Do not put the lapping compound on the bolt lugs or locking mechanism, since you do not want to alter headspace. which, in a 22 rimfire should be right around .041" to .042" with .043" the absolute maximum. [this is the thickness of match ammo rims on a 22 rimfire]

If you are serious about BR type shooting, you should have a match chamber reamed in your pet shooter as well, if it does not already have such. And no, your CZ 452 does not already have one, ditto your Savage. This is not a slam at these rifles, they are great for the purposes intended, but are designed to digest any and all ammo that may be out there.

Here's a way to check for a match chamber....Chamber a match round of any make [ELEY, RWS, LAPUA, ETC.] then remove it without firing it. The rifling impressions on at least ½ of the lead bullet should be plainly visible. No impressions? No match chamber.

There are some other considerations, but this is a bit of an overview anyway. Enjoy your rimfires. They are the least expensive way to enjoy a firearm, bar none!! Regards, Eagleye.