Ring height?

B

boomer49

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Hello,

I have a Stag 4R with the carry-handle, and just replaced the handle with the standard (lowest) Yankee Hill Picatinny rail/riser.

I'm going to mount a compact 6x32 scope (with a 1" tube) and was wondering what would be the best height for the rings. The rifle has the standard fixed stock.

(I live in the boonies and usually have to get this stuff by mail-order.)

Or I could drive to WS in Lethbridge but it's a 4-hour round trip and (bein' an Albertan) I'm concerned about my carbon footprint.

Also, what brand of rings would be good? I'd like a strong, symmetrical design. (Hey, don't we all? :) )

Boomer
 
?

Nobody's done this before?

I should mention that I'll be leaving the standard front sight in place ... I've read that (because of the magnification of the scope) it will basically disappear.
 
I would think the rings would have more to do with you specifically. Where you hold your head, cheek weld, etc.

What works for me may be terrible for you.
 
Check out Socom supplies, they have some nice scope mounts for AR type rifles, might be a little pricey, but if you want something gucci...well there it is.
 
boomer49 said:
I'm going to mount a compact 6x32 scope (with a 1" tube) and was wondering what would be the best height for the rings. The rifle has the standard fixed stock.
Click to expand...

Standard sights are 1.5" above the comb of the stock, so you may want to put the center line of the scope at the same height.
 
Okaaaaaay ...

So, basic Weaver rings in a medium height from the local Allied Hardware store might be a reasonable choice, right?

It seemed like such a simple question ... :)
 
What did I do wrong?

So, although I don't have the rings yet, I thought I'd remove the handle and attach the Yankee Hill riser rail.

Handle off, no problem ...

Slide on the YH rail ... no problem. It took a minute to realize that the charging handle had to be in the full rearward position.

Slide on the YH rail ... slick ... no problem.

Tighten-down the allen-head hex bolts (or whatever they're called) with the proper tool ...

Uh-oh ... the tool fit perfectly, but no matter how hard I tightened it ... you know where this is going, right? ... that rail just rattled-around a bit on the flat-top rail. Damn.

So I decided to cut my losses and take it 200 km to a real gunsmith. Those bolts that would not tighten-down properly just would not come undone. The two wrenches (made of the finest Chinese steel ... melted-down Norinco receivers) both just snapped.

Thank God I didn't mangle the bolt-heads ... they're still pristine.

Did I overlook something? Yankee Hill = Good. Stag tolerances = good. Maybe I just made a major mistake and (like I said) missed something?

The bleeding hand is a bit better ... I'll be fine.

Boomer
 
yankee hill = acceptable, but not "good".... no offence to anyone about anything but yankee hill has out of spec rails on some thier free float quad rails, and from what I have seen QC is hit or miss on some things.

about the only good and consistant thing I have seen on YHM is the finish, they do a good finish from the dozen different things I have seen.

STAG on the other hand is as close to a colt as you can get without having a pony on the side, quality is top notch and everything is to spec.... hell stag probably supplies parts to half of the ar15 manufacturers out there. If it will not work on a stag then the part is wrong.
 
Merci ...

Hi Westicle,

Thanks for the hand-holding. Yup, I researched Stag majorly and know its history. And I did buy it from Arms East.

The Yankee Hill piece just kinda "fell into my lap" so it seemed like the obvious go-to choice.

So ... now I'm scr**ed. Get out the paperwork. Load the restricted firearm into its $200 Pelican case. Drive 200 km to sunny Lethbridge. Hand-over the firearm to the smarter (compared to me) guy and hope that his services are not Alberta oil-field spec.

Or maybe I should just buy a Snap-On / Craftsman hex-head wrench and just gently give 'er with all the force and torque that I can manage..

And then maybe just totally trash the bolt-head ... more-or-less fusing that ####ty $28 YH rail to my $1500 rifle.

Life is full of yucky choices.

Boomer
 
if it is hex head just get a decent hex wrench and give her a go, what I would do is soak it down with lubricant or liquid wrench if you have it , let it sit over night and then tommorow afternoon give it a try again..... use wd40, gun oil or whatever... put some on tonight where it can work its way into the threads and then give her another douse in the morning and after lunch give her a try.

it will come off one way or another ;) ;)

if you do wreck the hex heads no big deal.... drill the screw out. slow and steady win the race when drilling.... or if it sticks out use some vise grips.
 
That's odd... YHM was always good to me on top of my Armalite(s) uppers.

Maybe this might be too late, but I've had lots of success with (I'm too old to deploy to hot and sandy locations) Millett Angle-Loc rings...on top of my Yankee Hill riser block. These days I'm using a Brownell's (likely a B Square) generic picatinny riser.

Anyways, what I will do is buy a bunch of the Millett Angle-Loc rings in BOTH 1" and 30mm diameters (anywhere between $ 25 and $ 35 a pair). Then I will keep them in LOW & Med heights for whatever projects (hunting or competition) my buddies and myself will need. :D

Many people will swear AT the rings :eek: but I swear BY them! :nest:

Buy / use what works for your budget, situation, and finally LCV (look cool value) yuk yuk yuk!
 
Problem solved!!

Here's a chuckle ... at my expense. Nothing would budge the tightening bolt on that riser ... even with four hands and a new hex-head wrench and Vise-Grips and a hammer. So we dremeled the round head into a rectangular shape and clamped-on the Vise-Grips and finally got it to move.

And then my buddy noticed that I'd inserted the two clamping bolts from the wrong (threaded) side!! That's why the riser wouldn't snug-up when I tightened the bolts ... there was nothing for the thread to bite into on the opposite side.

Very dumb of me, but (other than that mangled Yankee Hill bolt) thankfully no damage other than one small scratch on the riser.
 
well live and learn, now go to your local parts store and get another bolt and bolt that sucker back on there and get it tight so you can go shooting.... we all screw up like that sometime.
 
Merci ...

Hi Mr. Westicle,

Yup, learn from others' mistakes! And keep a sense of humour :)

Any idea of where to get another YH bolt to replace the one that I mangled? Cheap, obviously ... no more of this minimum $12 Canada Post shipping charge ...

I taped-off the tinily-scratched rail and painted the scratch with spray-paint stove-black that I already had in the basement.

Looks good so far ... two more coats and it'll be good-to-go.

Not 100 percent perfect, but ... then neither am I!

Boomer
 
Any idea of where to get another YH bolt to replace the one that I mangled?
Click to expand...

i would just go down to your local "gregs" or industrial supply and order up a new one, should be under $1..... hell the frightliner store is where I got the last bolts I needed although I had to switch to torx but that did not matter.

you allready have one or two left so take them down with you and they will tell you thread pitch and stuff.
 
I'll do that ...

Hi Westicle,

I don't know what "Gregs" or Indusrial Supply" means, but I go to town about once a week ... so I'll take the survivor bolt with me to try to match it. The Co-op Ranch Supply in PC and the AH in TCP are both amazing. Those guys love their work, and they are real pros.

So, is it a small bolt, or a screw?

Fort St. John's? I used to be a teacher in a great little school just a few miles north of Williams Lake ... in 1974.

Boomer
 
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