Ross 1905

J

Joe Turner

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Location
Atascadero, California USA
Hello Folks! I am new to this forum so am eager to make contacts with any active Ross rifle shooters. I have been a fan of this interesting and much maligned rifle for years and finally landed a project gun. Its a M1905, has the last few inches of the fore end cut off ahead of the lower barrel band and of course the nose cap or upper band is gone. The rifle is in otherwise nice condition with a good bore and lots of stampings on the butt stock It was apparently assembled in June of 1909. I had a 1910 Ross 40 years ago that was a fine shooting rifle although the brass lasted about two reloads. ANyone have any safety tips, disassembly tips, shooting tips they want to pass on? I have the book The Ross Rifle Story and the reprint of the 1907 Ross manual but my Ross has seen some changes since the manual was written. I am sure that many of you are probably tired of repeating the same old info every time a new Ross owner pops up but anything you want to pass on would be appreciated. I have been collecting, shooting and reloading for over 40 years but find that there is a ot that I do not know, even about my favorite weapons. My email address is; turner3003@sbcglobal.net. Looking forward to some good time spent on this board. Best regards from The People's republic of California, Joe
 
My first rifle was a Ross 1910 that was crudely Bubba'd long before I got it.

I still have it. I retired it in 1976, but then not so long ago I took it to a retired 'smith I know who happens to collect Rosses, make custom rifles from them and shoot 'em for an inspection. He gave it the okay, so I take it to the range occasionally. A buddy who's in the Rangers gave me some 303 ammo to try out, so I have a bit of that on hand.

I like the way the extra weight absorbs the recoil compared to Lee Enfields in 303.

Funny though, it shot way better with open sights when I was 17 in 1970 than now.

Can't figure that one out.
 
H Joe. Welcome to the board. There are a few of us here interested in Rosses. Is yours one of the Mk. II*** rifles that went to the US in 1917? It will have US Ordnance marks, and a serial number on the bottom of the grip just behind the trigger guard, if it is one of these. These seem to be the version most often seen in the States. Perhap If you do a search for "ross" you might find discussion threads that were running for a while. If you wanted, your rifle could be restored, with a splice under the band. Mk.II nosecaps seem easier to find than Mk.IIIs. You could contact "Wheaty" on this board; he seems to have a hoard of Mk.II parts, and perhaps might be able to help. There are also replacement forend sections available in the US. 1905s seem to have been stocked with European walnut, lighter in colour than North American, so getting a colour match can be a bit of a challenge. What marks are on the butt of your rifle? These can tell quite a story.
 
Thanks all of you for your replies and " welcome aboards" For what it is worth to those tracing existing Ross rifles my 1905 Mk.II*** is one of the US purchases and is serial numbered 19,906 with the US and eagle head surcharge and the number 3. The right side of the butt stock is stamped with the Circular cartouche containing a crown at the top and " QUEBEC " below and three blurred letters in the center that appear to be BAC but not sure. Above the cartouche is what appears to be an assembly date of 6/09. To the right of the cartouche is a large Roman numeral II and 3* next to it.
To the right of of the mark stamping is a stack of numbers as follows;
89
CHC
395
318
1908 AG
My Ross has the usual left side receiver stamping of Ross Rifle Co. Quebec Canada. 1905 and Patented underneath.
I suspect that I will find additional numbers/letters/cartouches when I take the rifle apart. There is no chamber enlargement letters such as LC or E stamped anywhere on the visible barrel, receiver. I had the gun checked for headspace and it proved still reasonably tight. It functions flawlessly so far and I fired fifty rounds of reloads through it with no deformation of brass or backed out primers, or readily viewable stress signs. I used once loaded new brass and was pleased with the bench rest grouping of 10 shots at 100 yards of 2.5 inches.I am not the best marksman in the world so I was very pleased with the group. I am pleased also to be able to join the ranks of Ross collectors with this somewhat average project gun and want to do a good job of bringing it back to correct configuration wth a fore arm splice and a proper nose cap. I have attempted to contact .303British but found that he is not taking emails at this time-I was told he has Ross parts. I will look for "Wheaty " and search the previous Roos threads. So at this point I am in need of a nose cap, sight hood and screws and lower barrel band screw and wood fore arm section. Thanks again all of you who answered my query and hope to hear from you from time to time. My regbular email address is; turner3003@sbcglobal.net. Best regards, Joe
 
Hi Joe. Nice to see another fan of the Ross. I have two: a mk 2 and a mk 3. I'm restoring the mk2 and have a small cache of parts, including an extra nosecap. Find me a barrel band and it's yours. If you get a lead on where to find replacement forearms (to splice in) please let me know!

Yours aye,
McVillan
 
It is a good idea to slug the bore on a 1905 Ross. Until 1911 they were made with a .299" bore and a .309" land diameter which is small for a .303".
 
I didn't slug the bore so it appears that I could have been putting way too much pressure on the breech system of my Ross. Thanks for the heads up Green! McVillan, thanks for your offer. I will keep my eye peeled for a lower band. If you ever want to sell that nose/cap upper band let me know. Within reason name your price as that is a critical piece for me. My rifle has the lower band, the type with the front edge that is rounded over to cover the end of the handguard. It is missing the securing screw. Best regards, Joe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom