PerversPépère
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Shawinigan (Quebec)
Hi!
Here are some pics to help you in your first try at this "daunting" task. I had to take the pics in a hurry to help a CanadianGunNutz member and some of the pics aren't perfect but I promise to redo some of them for more clarity.
OK, let's roll! First, you have to take the extractor out by lifting it to clear the retaining groove on the bolthead. To do this, place a flat-bladed screwdriver under the extractor near the groove and pry just enough to clear the groove. Push on it outwards and it's done.
Now take time to inspect the rear part of the bolt; notice there is a through hole at the end of the firing pin. Thread a wire or a hook into that hole to give you some purchase.
Put the bolt in a vice with padded jaws so it cannot move; pull on the firing pin and place a small 1 1/4" wood block in he sear block groove.
You'll notice a short, fat crosspin with rounded ends; this is the pin that secures the firing pin into the sear block. Push it out with a nail driver while keeping tension on the firing pin; it doesn't need much effort to slide out. Take the wood block out and let the firing pin come to rest slowly.
Here's the sear and crosspin out
Now, after marking them, grasp the two parts of the bolt and slowly unscrew them. Mark the point where they separate with a marker or machinist scribe if you intend to use strong solvents. Here are the two parts of the bolt and assorted bits.
Now, you have to take the firing pin and its spring out. There is a threaded stopper at the rear which has two ears; it unscrews in the normal manner but there is a special retainer behind it that prevents any unwanted unscrewing. It clicks on every half-turn.
Adjust your bench vise jaws open just enough to let the firing pin pass and unscrew the firing pin stop by turning the bolt body.
Here's the part with the bolt stop unscrewed one turn for clarity.
Here's the firing pin and related parts still assembled; notice the special retainer washer with outside projection and two locating nubs on its surface: that projection fits in a groove inside the bolt sleeve (to keep the washer from rotating) with the twin nubs facing outwards toward the threaded stopper.
Here are the parts disassembled
And here is the elephant, skinned, quartered and ready for cleaning.
If your bolt is of the "safety rivet" kind, there's only one way to reassemble it; for the "unrivetted" ones (much rarer) you can fumble it but there is only one position where reassembly is smooth. One surefire way to be certain: the gas port will face up when the bolt is in the open position.
Now, reassembly is in the exact reverse order BUT there's a trick: when you have finally succeeded in starting the inner bolt inside the sleeve, you'll reach a point where the bolthead cannot turn the final 80-90 degrees.
You have to pull apart the two pieces ever so slightly and you'll feel a slight 1/16" movement then the bolthead will rotate in place.
This last stage can drive you crazy if you don't do it right but it is so smooth once you discover the Ali Baba's secret move, you won't believe!
Good cleaning and NEVER force anything: if you have to force, something is wrong.
Here are some pics to help you in your first try at this "daunting" task. I had to take the pics in a hurry to help a CanadianGunNutz member and some of the pics aren't perfect but I promise to redo some of them for more clarity.
OK, let's roll! First, you have to take the extractor out by lifting it to clear the retaining groove on the bolthead. To do this, place a flat-bladed screwdriver under the extractor near the groove and pry just enough to clear the groove. Push on it outwards and it's done.
Now take time to inspect the rear part of the bolt; notice there is a through hole at the end of the firing pin. Thread a wire or a hook into that hole to give you some purchase.
Put the bolt in a vice with padded jaws so it cannot move; pull on the firing pin and place a small 1 1/4" wood block in he sear block groove.
You'll notice a short, fat crosspin with rounded ends; this is the pin that secures the firing pin into the sear block. Push it out with a nail driver while keeping tension on the firing pin; it doesn't need much effort to slide out. Take the wood block out and let the firing pin come to rest slowly.
Here's the sear and crosspin out
Now, after marking them, grasp the two parts of the bolt and slowly unscrew them. Mark the point where they separate with a marker or machinist scribe if you intend to use strong solvents. Here are the two parts of the bolt and assorted bits.
Now, you have to take the firing pin and its spring out. There is a threaded stopper at the rear which has two ears; it unscrews in the normal manner but there is a special retainer behind it that prevents any unwanted unscrewing. It clicks on every half-turn.
Adjust your bench vise jaws open just enough to let the firing pin pass and unscrew the firing pin stop by turning the bolt body.
Here's the part with the bolt stop unscrewed one turn for clarity.
Here's the firing pin and related parts still assembled; notice the special retainer washer with outside projection and two locating nubs on its surface: that projection fits in a groove inside the bolt sleeve (to keep the washer from rotating) with the twin nubs facing outwards toward the threaded stopper.
Here are the parts disassembled
And here is the elephant, skinned, quartered and ready for cleaning.
If your bolt is of the "safety rivet" kind, there's only one way to reassemble it; for the "unrivetted" ones (much rarer) you can fumble it but there is only one position where reassembly is smooth. One surefire way to be certain: the gas port will face up when the bolt is in the open position.
Now, reassembly is in the exact reverse order BUT there's a trick: when you have finally succeeded in starting the inner bolt inside the sleeve, you'll reach a point where the bolthead cannot turn the final 80-90 degrees.
You have to pull apart the two pieces ever so slightly and you'll feel a slight 1/16" movement then the bolthead will rotate in place.
This last stage can drive you crazy if you don't do it right but it is so smooth once you discover the Ali Baba's secret move, you won't believe!
Good cleaning and NEVER force anything: if you have to force, something is wrong.
