I agree that would should work alright.
Ross M10 Bolt removal
- Thread starter kaos
- Start date
I agree that would should work alright.
Wooot! Got it out! Ended up having to push the bolt all the fay through, then I could get to the screw to pull off the trigger plate. Pulling the whole shebang out, I could then remove the extractor which freed it up to be removed..
Again, thanks for the offers & help.. Now to go study the right way to put it back together..
Again, thanks for the offers & help..
Now to go study the right way to put it back together..
Great news.
In case we run into this again...you were unable to get it out the back?
So pushed it forward enough to clear the rear action screw so it could be removed?
Then once the stock was off you could pull the bolt back out fairly easily?
Were you able to rotate the bolt at all or it was trapped between the rails and had to stay vertical?
In case we run into this again...you were unable to get it out the back?
So pushed it forward enough to clear the rear action screw so it could be removed?
Then once the stock was off you could pull the bolt back out fairly easily?
Were you able to rotate the bolt at all or it was trapped between the rails and had to stay vertical?
Here's what happened. As suspected the bolt gear was in vertically rather than horizontal under the rear sight bridge. It was stuck between the rails, so when trying to pull out, the bolt's gear would try to turn & then get stuck on the rail. That in itself shouldn't have been much of an issue, as even though it was tight, banging it out wouldn't have worked. I did try this, but it just got suck worse so there was no for/aft movement due to the extractor binding on the rear sight's frame as the head tried to revolve to the horizontal position.
So, I used good old heat to warm the screws securing the front of the rear sight. This allowed just enough room to wiggle the bolt forward so that it was completely in, but of course it wouldn't lock. Doing this, I could access the rear screw securing the stock/trigger guard to access the entire assembly. Now here's what the real jamming was- On the trigger assembly, there is a metal plate, labeled "G" in this diagram-
What was happening was as the bolt was being pushed out, the semi-vertical bolt gear would catch on this. All I needed to do was press this down as I was pulling the bolt out & it was extracted very easily. It created a one way trip for the bolt it did, letting it click on past & then locking itself securely in place.
Once the bolt was out, I got the two rear sight bolts out & gave everything a good oiling. Lots or accumulated dirt in that stock, although I *think* it's an original that's been modified- One part you could see where the bands once were.
Once I reassembled it, I did notice that if you close the bolt with the safety on, it will still fire. If you close it when 'ready' and then put on the safety, it works. Is this a issue specific to mine, or common to the M10?
Now to figure out where to get the front bolt to hold the barrel in the stock & get some .303 & have some fun!
I checked on mine and the bolt wont close with the safety in safe position unles the trigger is pulled.
Joce
You've reassembled the bolt safely using the "rule of thumb?"
As it goes forward, bolt locking lugs should be
horizontal
width of your thumb between the bolt sleeve and the locking lugs
hole in the bolt up
Then, ensure that the bolt is turning into battery, observe it turning 90 degrees into full lockup. Best to use a cleaning rod or dowel to push hard on the breech face from the muzzle end at that point to ensure that it is fully locked.
Once verified, as Smellie has said many times, you have an incredibly strong, accurate rifle. The bolt won't get out of whack by itself.
Very glad you got it out without hurting anything, well done.
As it goes forward, bolt locking lugs should be
horizontal
width of your thumb between the bolt sleeve and the locking lugs
hole in the bolt up
Then, ensure that the bolt is turning into battery, observe it turning 90 degrees into full lockup. Best to use a cleaning rod or dowel to push hard on the breech face from the muzzle end at that point to ensure that it is fully locked.
Once verified, as Smellie has said many times, you have an incredibly strong, accurate rifle. The bolt won't get out of whack by itself.
Very glad you got it out without hurting anything, well done.
Here's what happened. As suspected the bolt gear was in vertically rather than horizontal under the rear sight bridge. It was stuck between the rails, so when trying to pull out, the bolt's gear would try to turn & then get stuck on the rail. That in itself shouldn't have been much of an issue, as even though it was tight, banging it out wouldn't have worked. I did try this, but it just got suck worse so there was no for/aft movement due to the extractor binding on the rear sight's frame as the head tried to revolve to the horizontal position.
So, I used good old heat to warm the screws securing the front of the rear sight. This allowed just enough room to wiggle the bolt forward so that it was completely in, but of course it wouldn't lock. Doing this, I could access the rear screw securing the stock/trigger guard to access the entire assembly. Now here's what the real jamming was- On the trigger assembly, there is a metal plate, labeled "G" in this diagram-
What was happening was as the bolt was being pushed out, the semi-vertical bolt gear would catch on this. All I needed to do was press this down as I was pulling the bolt out & it was extracted very easily. It created a one way trip for the bolt it did, letting it click on past & then locking itself securely in place.
Once the bolt was out, I got the two rear sight bolts out & gave everything a good oiling. Lots or accumulated dirt in that stock, although I *think* it's an original that's been modified- One part you could see where the bands once were.
Once I reassembled it, I did notice that if you close the bolt with the safety on, it will still fire. If you close it when 'ready' and then put on the safety, it works. Is this a issue specific to mine, or common to the M10?
Now to figure out where to get the front bolt to hold the barrel in the stock & get some .303 & have some fun!
Hmmm, interesting. Thanks for checking. Will have to look into this.
I did. Went through the Bolt disassembly sticky & watched a couple of youtube vids I found on it. It's locked in there good & tight. Haven't pushed on it, but I can see the bolt head rotating into vertical when in the breach. It should be good, but I'll check with the dowel. Now, I just gotta get some dummy rounds to see how it cycles now. But solid! Admittedly my firearms knowledge is very limited compared to most here, but never have I seen a rifle with a more robust barrel. A big chunk of metal on these things..
- Location
- Manitoulin Island
"I checked on mine and the bolt wont close with the safety in safe position unles the trigger is pulled."
Joce
That is the way mine works too. Bolt won't fully close unless you pull the trigger, then it snaps forward. A little concerned about this. Think I will chamber a primed, unloaded cartridge to make sure the firing pin doesn't contact the primer.
Bill
Joce
That is the way mine works too. Bolt won't fully close unless you pull the trigger, then it snaps forward. A little concerned about this. Think I will chamber a primed, unloaded cartridge to make sure the firing pin doesn't contact the primer.
Bill
No, it just means it can't be incorrectly assembled, which was the purpose of the whole exercise.
Correct. It comes apart as normal, but you can't put the bolt into the wrong track, which is too easy otherwise.
Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
The safety does not do anything until the action is closed and the firing pin is cocked. Your test round will likely go off if you activate the safety and pull the trigger to get the bolt closed.
