Ross M1910 bolt disassembly.

svt1940

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Hi fellows milsurps lovers:) The Ross M1910 is one of the finest bolt action rifle ever made as in regard in accuracy,smoothness and speed of operation. Unfortunatly,the M1910 main drawback,i think, is that the bolt can be assembled incorrectly if disassembled for cleaning or servicing. Recently another thread make me pulling my Ross out of gun safe to make a tutoral on bolt disassembly. I think that was important to do because of the risk of a incorrectly assembled bolt. The Ross M1910 is a straight pull bolt action rifle with a rotating bolt head. When the bolt is pushed foward, the bolt head turn about ¼ turn in vertical position to locked position. Because of the way the bolt is made, if the bolt is disassembled and assembled incorrectly, the locking lugs wont lock, even with the bolt fully foward, and the rifle can still fire with an unlocked bolt. This can cause injuries to the shooter since the bolt will be driven violently to the rear. Assembled correctly, the Ross M1910 is a perfectly safe rifle. Following is a complete bolt tear down so let's see with pics how to do it:) The bolt is removed from the rifle after pivoting the bolt release. When the bolt is removed from the rifle, the bolt head will likely turn in locked position since its on main spring pressure.
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The extractor is removed by prying it to disengage from the bolt head and slided away from the bolt.
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The cocking piece must be unlocked from the firing pin.
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At the end of firing pin, there's a small hole. A small object(a little screwdriver,punch,nail) is inserted so the firing pin/cocking piece can be pulled to expose the cocking piece locking pin.
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The locking pin is pushed and the cocking piece is removed(after removal of the small object previously inserted in the hole at the end of the firing pin)
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The bolt head assembly is pulled from bolt body.
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The firing pin retainer must be unscrewed from bolt head body, an adjustable wrench work fine.
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The firing pin is then removed from the bolt head body.
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There's a small lock ring against the main spring.
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The lock ring have 2 dimples that mesh with notches on the firing pin retainer.
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Also, the lock ring have a small tab that mesh with a keyway in the bolt head sleeve.
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To remove safety, rotate straight up and pull to the right.
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Remove the safety plunger and spring from the bolt handle.
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Bolt disassembled.
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Reassemble in reverse order,BUT, the bolt head must be assembled correctly in the bolt body, otherwise, the locking lugs wont engage in the receiver and since the rifle will fire even with an unlocked bolt, the bolt will be pushed back upon firing with possible injuries to the shooter.

To reassemble bolt head.
Engage the bolt head in the bolt body, meshing the cuts until the head is seated completely in the bolt body.
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The next 2 pics show the bolt head assembled INCORRECTLY!
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On pic above, the head is fully seated but the lockings lugs are in horizontal position, unlocked. If the bolt is assembled in the rifle that way, even pushed fully foward, the head will not lock in receiver, causing an hazardous situation. Never assemble a bolt this way in a M1910 Ross!

On the bottom pic, the head is seated but again in unlocked position and also upside down and cant be inserted in rifle,also the extractor cant be assembled in this position.
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The next pic is a correctly assembled bolt head. The head is fully seated and the locking lugs are in locked position, vertically. Now the remaining parts can be reassembled.
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Reassemble the cocking piece by inserting in the bolt. Again a small object is inserted through the hole at the end of firing pin to pull it back along with the cocking piece so the firing pin lockpin can be put in place.
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The firing pin is notched to receive the lock pin.
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Extractor is put back in place.
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Before reinserting the bolt in the rifle, the head must be pulled in unlocked position. Pulling on the head will turn it clockwise(if viewed from behind) about ¼ turn.
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In unlocked position, there's a distance of about 1 (.935 exactly) inch between the back of locking lugs and the bolt body.
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The bolt is ready to be installed in the rifle.
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When installed correctly, we can see the bolt head turning to the left in locked position as the bolt handle is pushed foward.(on the pics,the extractor is removed for clarity)
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I hope this tutoral will be useful. Thankyou for looking.
Joce
 
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Thanks for this post.

I have heard that an effective function test to see if the bolt is correctly re-assembled is to #### the bolt, then to pull the bolt body back out of battery but not enough to fully disengage the locking lugs. At this point pull the trigger and the bolt body should move forward into the closed position. If it doesn't the bolt has not been assembled correctly!
 
Thanks for this post.

I have heard that an effective function test to see if the bolt is correctly re-assembled is to #### the bolt, then to pull the bolt body back out of battery but not enough to fully disengage the locking lugs. At this point pull the trigger and the bolt body should move forward into the closed position. If it doesn't the bolt has not been assembled correctly!

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Have you tried this yourself?

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The most effective device for checking on the proper functioning of the Ross bolt is the Mark I Eyeball and a small flashlight. The bolt should be assembled using the "Rule of Thumb", that is, there should be about one inch or the width of your Thumb between the rear of the locking lugs on the bolt head and the front of the bolt carrier.

When you take a small flashlight, (those little LED ones work great,) and shine it into the rear of the receiver as you close the bolt, you can see if the locking lugs on the bolt turn and lock FULLY in position. A bolt that is not assembled correctly will only engage about 1/6 of the lugs and a properly assembled bolt will engage fully.

Once again, for about the 10th time, I will post these pictures for the benefit of people who are too lazy to use the "SEARCH" function of this Forum.
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svt 1940

A great job on the 1910 Ross Bolt disassembly post. Excellent pictures and instructions.

Too many people just have to take a rifle apart when for "cleaning" when they first get it and the next post from them we see is "My rifle doesn't work. Any ideas why?"

The Moderators should make that one into a Sticky.
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Thankyou for alls the good comments, very appreciated:) I dont have the knowledges of buffdog or smellie about the Ross, i tried my best to put clear pics and instructions and i'm glad if was good. Btw, i updated the post with better pictures, showing the bolt head turning in locked position(they are last 3 pics). Thanyou again for looking:)
Joce
 
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Thanks for this info! Great work!

It must be doubly difficult for you to explain all this in English. How many of us Anglophones could do the same in French?

Not so difficult, i learned english by myself so its still rough around the edges:redface: I will correct orthograph and grammar soon as i can, i updated somes pics to get them more presentable:) Thankyou for your appreciation.:)
Joce
 
It is a very very interesting post... Obviously, not the most popular because the last message is dated from 2012 but I just found out about the Ross rifle and now, I would like to get one. Hard to find, hoard to pay. It seems that the WWI commemoration is reviving interest for this rifle.

If any of you knows an "expert" or a collector in Quebec Province and/or Ontario and/or New Brunswick, feel free to let me know in PM. I have the chance to work at the Citadelle of Québec Museum and still learn about the Ross almost every day.

Hope to hear from someone...

Martin
 
Martin, here is a decent looking Sporterized MkIII in the EE right now. It would get you shooting the platform at least. Most of my Ross collection consists of bubba's like this because of the price and rarity of originals.
 
I came to this forum to ask if anyone knew how to remove the safety, the only piece I couldn't find a reference for. Then I found your comprehensive guide.

Edit: I don't suppose you have another guide or references for disassembling the rest of the rifle? (I'm aware that some parts don't come apart, like the magazine.)
 
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Excuse my ignorance, but do the M1910 (MkIII) bolts that are pinned allow the inner sleeve/bolt head to be removed.
Joelyknives

Yes, you can still remove the inner bolt. The pin only prevents the inner sleeve/bolt from sliding into the wrong spot when reassembling.
 
Isn't it obvious to see once it is on the gun that it is assembled wrong? Nice tutorial btw to the OP. I'm not a fan of how she comes apart lol. Also anyone know where to get brass for an m10 in .280ross? (even resized from other brass?)
 
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