Ross magazine help

jigxer

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Kamloops BC
I recently picked up my first Ross, an M10 MkIII. It is an amazing rifle, but the magazine has some issues. It can't be loaded with stripper clips and if I hand load it, the rounds don't get pushed up high enough for the bolt to catch the rim. It looks like tab at the back is blocking the follower from coming all the way up. Does anyone have a picture of what a good mag should look like?

Here are some photos of my mag
aTL4LAb.jpg


rMkfJtm.jpg


any help or advice would be appreciated
 
Tiriaq is correct. The rear guide has been bent forward and should be bent back. A common problem. Also if the cartridges are not
feeding correctly the front guide similarly can be bent slightly up or down. On occasion I have also seen where either one or both side
guides have been filed down to try to allow better feeding. Unfortunately this 'cure' will only allow jams of fluted drill cartridges and
does little for feed. Most Ross Rifle drill cartridges were not fluted. On one occasion I had to remove the side guides and slightly bend them
out at the top for easier feed. Some of the earlier mags (yours is a later mag) were of lower gauge material so if
there was a shrewd blow to the mag which produced an inside dent the mag was rendered useless and often irrepairable. JOHN
 
All the above info is correct.

My first Ross was a mk3 and the tab on the rear of the mag was bent forward exactly like yours OP.

I bent it back with a pair of plyers and its functioned fine ever since.
 
thanks for the advice and the pictures. Its good to see what a functioning one looks like.

This is a rifle I've wanted for a very long time. My Grandfather fought World War 1 with the 2CMR and I thought it would be nice to have the same rifle that he went over with.

What surprised me about the rifle is how light the trigger is. It is easily the lightest trigger on any of my rifles, including my AR which has a 5lb pull. Are they supposed to be light?
 
after using gentle heat and carefully using some pliers I was able to bend to tab into its proper position. I also had to bend the front tab down as the bolt would move the round 1/4 inch then slide over it not picking it up. It now pick up and chambers the first 4 rounds, but last round is still pushed about a 1/4 inch then the bolt just goes over top.

As for the light trigger, I borrowed a trigger gauge and it pulls between 1.5 and 2 lbs. looks like the sear has been rounded over. Anyone know if its possible to find a new sear?
 
The sear is next to a roller. sear sticks out at about 45 degrees pointing to roughly the top of the roller.
 
Last edited:
107800.jpg


Gunparts
Sear
Manufacturer: ROSS
Model: 1910 MKIII
Product #: 107800

We only ship to U.S.A., U.S. Protectorates, and Canada.
$14.25
Qty:
1
ADD TO CART
Add to My Saved Parts
Eligible for FREE shipping *
 
Last edited:
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/pub/products/107800.jpg[\img]

Gunparts
Sear
Manufacturer: ROSS
Model: 1910 MKIII
Product #: 107800

We only ship to U.S.A., U.S. Protectorates, and Canada.
$14.25
Qty:
1
ADD TO CART
Add to My Saved Parts
Eligible for FREE shipping *[/QUOTE]

No free shipping to Canada, but their shipping charges are quite reasonable.
 
thanks diopter, ordered a sear and a cocking piece. I didn't think you could still find these parts.

Is it possible to take the magazine apart?

Still can't figure out why the last round isn't pushed up far enough for the bolt to pick it.
 
You got the magazine out?

I've had mine for 51 years and I have never figured out how to remove the magazine.
 
I had some Ross parts somewhere, but still trying to find them after my move.

P3142114.jpg

I remember on of the sear was almost useless without some stoning. other was not immaculate.

 
You got the magazine out?

I've had mine for 51 years and I have never figured out how to remove the magazine.

Have to unscrew both action screws and remove the floor plate which holds the mag against the action.
It's strictly a charger loader or single round feed into the mag.
 
J
It is "POSSIBLE".
I have done it on a (very well worn) R-10.

(True, from the son) story first, as we have all too little history to go with our Rosses.
"Grandpa Schiissler" (who later founded "Ad Hominem" beside Ellwood Epps (he was an ex-partner) in Orillia Ontario...see adds at top of home page) then a trapper in the "dirty thirties", was dragging trapped beavers back to his camp one winter's night and was attacked by wolves.
He shot one with the Ross (one up the spout) and his dog valiantly took on the pack while he cranked in another round. But he was "out of ammo" as it only went "click"!!
He killed one more wolf with some difficulty using the rifle (by the barrel) as a club, and the dog (somewhat chewed at this point) ran off the remaining two wolves.

The rifle sat in two pieces for 70 years, in the basement of "A/H" above, until I rescued it, and took it home.

After a somewhat creditable stock repair job, I cranked a dummy round through it and (wait for it) it would not feed!
The innards were jammed, and that was the problem all those years ago, not ammo.
I pried off the side springs (bottom out first) and drilled out the rivets (front comes out) to discover that the arms had become jammed and one was in fact disconnected.
NOW I had to re-rivet it all back together and I DO NOT RECOMMEND this endeavour to anyone other than hairpins like me.

So if you can clean/lubricate/ease up the whole works I recommend; stop right there.
Best in your restoration endeavours.
OGC
 
Have to unscrew both action screws and remove the floor plate which holds the mag against the action.
It's strictly a charger loader or single round feed into the mag.


Thanks. I was given the rifle in 1967 as my first firearm. Shot my first several deer with it. To tell the truth, I had it for about 45 years before I even took the barreled action out of the stock. Discovered a folded up cardboard matchbook cover under the very end of the (sporterized) fore-end.
 
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