Ross MkIII sight question

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Anyone have any info on how to properly ultilize the Ross M10 MkIII battle sight? In the folded down position, the rear v or u knotch seems really big for the front blade, but if that is normal then ok, is that posn sighted at 100 or 300yards.

With the sight in the upright posn, the thumb screw I see moves another v knotch up or down,, But I am confused as to why the circle peep under the v is off centered, and how adjust its windage...
 
ok, its a hard wheel to turn,, #### I can't imagine trying to turn it in combat trench conditions.. But why is the peep off set to the v knotch?
 
It may be slightly rusted too - they tend to seize up if they have a lot of rust in them. If I knew how to take them apart, there would probably be a solution.

As for one of yours being offset... hmmm. The two open topped sights should be aligned, and the round sight in the plate is windage adjustable.
 
Ok, got it.. it was just stuck.. still kind of hard to operate. So in the folded down posn using the v knotch,, would that be zeroed at 300?
 
It may be slightly rusted too - they tend to seize up if they have a lot of rust in them. If I knew how to take them apart, there would probably be a solution.

As for one of yours being offset... hmmm. The two open topped sights should be aligned, and the round sight in the plate is windage adjustable.

Took mine apart.
It makes use of two staggered threads which alleviate any backlash. Very clever.
And difficult to take down and rebuild once apart...:eek:
PP.
 
For your Information - Someone posted this, but I no longer know the web address. Bill
Ross Mk.3 backsight

This description of the Ross sight appeared in the British Rifleman for Sept. 1942. Can anyone fault it?

OUR military authorities occasionally issue weapons, especially to the unfortunate Home Guard, with totally inadequate, and some cases complete absence of, information as to how to use them. The Ross rifle is a case in point. Most people manage eventually to worry out the mysteries of the bolt, but generally the backsight defeats them. The Editor has asked me to ensure that readers at least of The Rifleman shall be properly informed.
There have been several variations of this sight issued in past years, but all those I have seen in this country are of the model described here.
It has two “Battle Sights,” which are cut-away apertures both fixed to the slide which also has an ordinary or closed Aperture.
The normal position of this slide is, of course, at the bottom of the Leaf, and the Leaf down.
The Battle Sight which then shows is set for 600 yards. NOT 400 yards. There is no 400 yard Battle Sight on this Ross.
If you now flip up the Leaf, the other Battle Sight shows.
This is (with the slide at the bottom as stated) set for 1,000 yards.
The idea is that, against an advancing enemy, the soldier starts shooting, with this Battle Sight up, when they are 1,000 yards away, and until they reach 600 yards away. He then flips the Leaf down and continues with the 600 yard Battle Sight aiming down (if he knows the trajectory) when they get closer. A very good idea, too—if anyone were ever told about it.
Both these Battle Sights have, as I said, cut-away Apertures. They are variously referred to by the ignorant as “ Open sights,” “Modified U’s,” “Buckhorns,” and all kinds of things ; and instructors instruct recruits to “ get the blade in the centre of the U and level with the shoulders.” It is pathetic! Imagine any rifle designer fitting an open sight at two inches from the eye! Not outside Bedlam.
No—use them exactly like any other aperture. Just imagine, if you like, that the bit of the ring cut away at the top is still there, and go ahead. It is cut out to let more light through in bad light, and to enable you to pick up your object quicker. But as no British soldiers or Home Guards ever practise shooting in dusk at natural targets, they would not know this. Nor would they know anything about the virtues of white sight-paint and shooting with both eyes open—things which the stalker learns in his cradle and which soldiers should be taught but never are. However, we are supposed to be talking about the Ross Sight.
As stated, there is an ordinary Aperture, at the bottom of the slide, which has the 1,000 yard Battle Sight at the top.
This Aperture is for all accurate deliberate fire. It is raised up the Leaf by a quick thread screw, and on the face of the Leaf are Range Markings in yards. This series of figures starts at zero, and then 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 hundred yards. There is no 100 yards. One hundred is never used as a range marking in war, and if you want to set your sight accurately for 100 for practice (grouping) you have to find the elevation, somewhere above zero, for yourself.
On the right edge of the Leaf is a Scale. This is not another series of hundreds of yards markings. Its zero is level with the other zero. There is no other connection. It is meant to be used, for targeting the rifle, exactly like the scales on civilian .22 rifle sights, which have no ranges marked on.
This scale is marked from One to Nine. These are tenths of an inch. Each division is again divided up into four.
One-tenth of an inch, at this sight radius, gives you, near enough, ten minutes of angle. A quarter division therefore gives you a quarter of this, or 21 minutes of angle; and this is the finest adjustment shown. There are no “clicks” but you can of course set the sight to finer adjustment by judgement. The scale is probably intended chiefly to enable a man to take exact readings of the sight on this scale for the various ranges, if the rifle does not agree exactly with the range markings, as it seldom does, owing to the impossibility of standardising precisely such things as stocking and barrel flip and jump.
Behind and at the bottom of the Leaf is a triple knurled head which works the Windgauge. There is on the front of the Leaf a Windgauge Scale marked in twentieths of an inch. Each of these, of course, gives five minutes of lateral angle. They are not divided any more finely, and intermediate settings are obtained by the knurled head.
The windgauge is, of course, a very convenient means of adjustment for straight shooting. It should then be left alone. Wind allowance is not done now by windgauge in military shooting.
By the way, there is a very simple way of checking the range to which these, or any other Battle Sights are supposed to be set, as follows.
Fix the rifle firmly in a vice or the like, with the 600 yard Battle Sight and foresight lined up correctly at a mark - any mark, at any distance. It doesn’t matter.
Now raise the Leaf (without moving the rifle) and screw up the slide until the Aperture in the bottom of it comes correctly to the same aim. If you have done it right, you will find that it has come up to the 600 yards mark. That is your check.
Similarly, with the Leaf up and slide at the bottom, line up the Leaf Battle Sight with the mark. Then screw up the slide until the Aperture comes to the aim. It will be at the 1,000 yards mark.
You can check a P.14 or M.17 similarly, when with the P.14 you will find that the Battle Sight aim agrees with that of the Slide Aperture at 400 yards, as a rule. I have found a few which were set for 300 yards. The Battle Sight on the M.17 agrees with the leaf at 450 yards. This is because the Battle Sight is identical and the same height on both rifles, and thus gives a longer range, by 50 yards, to the higher velocity .300 cartridge. The leaf sights are not the same, each being correctly marked at the range elevations for its cartridge.
 
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I've seen these sights vary between moving too easily, to the point that it probably would move when the rifle is fired, to seized solid.

Probably saturating it with penetrating oil spray(Kroil?) wouldn't be amiss.
 
The windage adjustment on the full length Ross I have turns but doesn't move the aperture. The aperture can be moved by lightly tapping it. I haven't tried to take it apart yet, but figure something is stripped.
 
Jesus, that explanation of the sights is complicated. its no wonder the troops never figured it out.


LOL:runaway: I agree. Can you imagine trying to explain that instruction to a bunch of raw recruits fresh off the farm only interested in the big adventure, women and wiskey.... not to mention riflemen like us here... FORGET IT.

Don't get me wrong bushwacker I enjoyed the read, and got some from it, but wow!
 
A WWI vet told me they were instructed to use only the battle sight and not the aperture and to not touch the windguage.
Sir Charles recommended eliminating the windguage but was over ruled.
The sight was based on a Parker sight and a license fee was paid. Parker said that Ross badly redesigned his sight.
 
Well anyway I had the o'l girl out to the range yesterday and fired off about 50 rounds.. And let me tell you, as it was my first time ever shooting a Ross Rifle,, it was a joy to handle.. That straight pull action is really cool indeed.. A very slick rifle. She will be a keeper...
 
A WWI vet told me they were instructed to use only the battle sight and not the aperture and to not touch the windguage.
Sir Charles recommended eliminating the windguage but was over ruled.
The sight was based on a Parker sight and a license fee was paid. Parker said that Ross badly redesigned his sight.

I can't imagine anyone who was a serious rifleman in the trenches sticking with the 600 Yd. and 1000Yd. sights only. Some of those front line trenches were pretty close.
 
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