Ross questions

J

Joe Turner

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Atascadero, California USA
I am finishing up the basic cleaning of my newly acquired Ross 1910 Mk.III* made in 1916. The bore is cleaning up very nicely as I have managed to get a lot of old dirt, dust, soot and copper fouling out. Some of the patches came out almost totally blue. The end result so far is sharper looking lines, smoother and shimey grooves. The bore depite all my previous moaning and groaning about the appearance slugs out at .311, no wear at the muzzle, no apparent erosion at the throat and the chamber is nice and smooth. My question is about assembly- the stock reinforcing screw can be tightened to the point where the action can't be lifted out. How tight or loose should I adjust the fit? also when I tighten down the front and rear receiver screws how tight? I know they should probably be snug but I know there are little tricks to action screw tightening for every rifle. Also when assembled the tip of the fore end is about 3/16ths of an inch below the top or front edge of the the upper band. The cross screw hole lines up properly, the band is a snug fit and the bayonet fits very well si I am curious about that little difference as most rifles are usually flush fitted with the end of the upper band. Does anyone have a butt swivel? I know these are hard to find but mine was apparently broken and was welded and it is the only unsightly repair job on the rifle. Would like to correspond with Ross shooters and collectors about trivia and targets but will also talk here. Thanks for any answers you can give me-great web site! Best regards, Joe
 
As far as I know the cross screw is just a reinforcement. I doubt that it should be tightened to the point that it interferes. I just pull up the action screws firmly, the same as any other bolt action rifle. The Ross action has large bottom flats, and you want these in contact with the stock. Don't know why the tip of the forend is not flush with the end of the nosecap. The stamped caps on the earlier pattern Mk. IIIs are closed, the forged caps are open, but the stocks are entirely different in the nosecap area. You could pm "wheaty", who has some Ross parts. I checked, and I do not have a butt swivel in my cache. The butt swivels seem to be the same on Mk. IIs and IIIs.
The amount of fouling and filth that can build up in old military rifles' bores is remarkable. Sometimes what looks like a sewer on first inspection cleans up quite nicely.
 
Thanks tiriaq! I have a pretty good fund of working knowledge about some mlitary firearms but most of that is based on what I am doing now, cleaning, shooting and studying each rifle as I get it. Thanks for checking your cache for a butt swivel. I got some very nice Ross parts from Warren Wheatfield before so will have to bother him again. Back to the shop! Joe
 
Ross M-10

I think Klunk still has some parts for a MkIII M-10 such as nosecap, middle band, swivels and magazines.
Send him a PM.
BTW, if you can afford the luxury of an electrolytic copper and lead cleaner such as the Outer's Foul-Out units, you'll be surprised by the amount of gilding metal it removes.
Good luck!
PP.:)
 
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Levi Garrett said:
Were these guns not nasty on shooters, something to do with the bolt coming back at ya. Or did they fix that ?
Click to expand...


If the rifles are assembled properly they are safe, Some marks could be improperly assembled so that they could fire with the bolt un-locked. An unhealthy passtime to say the least
 
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