Ross rifle failing to fire

JTF#

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I took my ross out and fired two shots and then it stopped working. You load the next round but the trigger will not pull. I switched out the bolt for a different one and it lasted maybe 10 shots before it too would no longer fire.

Can anyone help with this?
 
I never had that problem with my Ross but I have an extra trigger group if you want to try swapping it out and see if the problem is in there
 
I have other ross's . I never thought to change up the trigger. maybe I will try that. its the M10 ross with EC
 
Is the trigger itself moving or is it solid? I'm wondering if either the cross pin for the trigger has slid out of place allowing the trigger to move but not activate the sear or if something is jamming the trigger in place.
 
Does it work on an empty chamber? Factory or reloads? If it works on an empty chamber then the cartridge may not be seating. Could also be fouling in the locking lug recess.
 
I am using ww2 surplus and yes it will work if there is no round in it. but I can get afew shots off and then it fails. do you think heat could effect it some how?
 
Hmm - if it'll function without a round in the chamber it sounds like it's not fully going into battery? The ross bolt should try to close itself when the trigger is pulled (and the bolt's properly assembled)... since you've tried two bolts and it has done it on both of them, it's not the bolts.

When a round (or piece of brass) is chambered and the bolt cocked, then you pull the trigger, is there any movement whatsoever? I'm wondering if the gun isn't able to get into battery so the whole assembly just locks in place, since the spring action will try to close the action, but if it's as far forward as it'll go with whatever's stopping it, it'll just stay where it is.


I guess without having someone look at it:
1) Does the sear move without a bolt in the gun? IE can you see it drop down in front of the roller when the trigger is pulled?
2) With the bolt in the gun but no round chambered, does the trigger and bolt work correctly, IE dry fire?
3) If it works correctly, does the bolt body move forward at all? IE is there a way to index a point on the bolt body and measure off the receiver ring so you can tell if it travels forward at all after the trigger is pulled?
4) can you place a sized but unprimed piece of brass in the chamber and repeat the process and dry fire?
5) If yes, can you place a primed piece of brass in the chamber and repeat? does the primer fire, is there any marking on the primer?
If you get to point 5 I'm stumped.

Points may have a..... point (badum-tss) on something fouling up the lugs inside the receiver ring. If you've got a curved dental pick and a good light maybe do some passes and see if there's any built up gunk hiding deep down in a crack that's catching a lug? Also see if the light shows any burrs or cracked/warped surfaces or anything like that in there - either on the bearing surfaces or the breech face that might keep it from going into battery properly.
 
okay so I changed the trigger group and I ran a bunch off brass trough the gun and I could not replicate the problem. it works every time. I will not know anything till I can fire the gun again. looks okay for now.

(the old trigger from this gun I put on the gun I got from you Wally and the bolt that was on the failing gun will not enter and twist in your gun.)
 
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