Have two Ross's, a 1910 sporterized in 303 Epps improved and my full wood 1910. Have use the Epps since last hunting season and the original I shot at the Sierra shoot this past summer. Took the orig to the range this weekend and noticed the bolt would not travel all the way forward to engage the lugs unless I pulled the trigger while putting pressure on the bolt, then it moved the last 1"-1.5"s and the lugs engaged. Decided I'll figure this one out at home as I have a second Ross. Get home and that rifle is doing the same thing???? Pulled both bolt's, The bolt cams back as it should when turned, oiled everything again including the parts that engage the bolt and firing pin. Know the orig works fine?? but the Epp's is still screwed. Note when the bolt was forward but not locked up the firing pin still went forward on both when the trigger was pulled and both bolts were not dry when this original problem started.
Ross Rifle Issues
- Thread starter Bob
- Start date
Yep - if you stripped them down, I'd say they were reassembled wrong. Did it once in the past intentionally so I'd know what I was seeing and it's a weird thing - hard to do, but once done, easy to miss and hard to undo.
http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=298-Ross-M-10-Rifle-Bolt-Disassembly
http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=298-Ross-M-10-Rifle-Bolt-Disassembly
1910 ross bolt problem
i reacently aquired a 1910 ross rifle it would #### and fire so the rifle seemed fine.i was still very leary off this rifle after reading so much about bolt problems and such. I read some where that to make sure the locking lugs were rotating all the way to look into the right side of the reciver while pushing the bolt foward and you can actually see the locking lugs rotate.I tried this and sure enough the locking lugs were just catching and the bolt only partially rotating.I striped the bolt completly apart and what i found was that the cocking peice at the verry end of the bolt was sticking i cleaned this well and reassembled the bolt, it worked great. I finally felt it was safe to shoot i had not fired a live round in it up to this point.so with the bolt working fine i gave the barrel a good cleaning and took it to the range.It cycled ,chambered and fired flewlessly and pretty accurate once you get used to the old military style sights.Hope this helps
i reacently aquired a 1910 ross rifle it would #### and fire so the rifle seemed fine.i was still very leary off this rifle after reading so much about bolt problems and such. I read some where that to make sure the locking lugs were rotating all the way to look into the right side of the reciver while pushing the bolt foward and you can actually see the locking lugs rotate.I tried this and sure enough the locking lugs were just catching and the bolt only partially rotating.I striped the bolt completly apart and what i found was that the cocking peice at the verry end of the bolt was sticking i cleaned this well and reassembled the bolt, it worked great. I finally felt it was safe to shoot i had not fired a live round in it up to this point.so with the bolt working fine i gave the barrel a good cleaning and took it to the range.It cycled ,chambered and fired flewlessly and pretty accurate once you get used to the old military style sights.Hope this helps
Ross bolt assembly
When you put the bolt into the rifle, but not fully closed, there should be about ONE INCH of the bolt showing between the rear of the locking lugs and the front end of the bolt carrier. This is the correct spacing.
If there is only about ONE QUARTER OF AN INCH SHOWING, then the bolt is assembled wrong.
Even then, I always check to be sure by shining a LED flashlight into the rear of the front receiver ring and watch the bolt head rotate, and the lugs fully lock. On a bolt that is assembled wrong, only about 1/6 of the lugs will be fully locked, and you can see this quite clearly.
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When you put the bolt into the rifle, but not fully closed, there should be about ONE INCH of the bolt showing between the rear of the locking lugs and the front end of the bolt carrier. This is the correct spacing.
If there is only about ONE QUARTER OF AN INCH SHOWING, then the bolt is assembled wrong.
Even then, I always check to be sure by shining a LED flashlight into the rear of the front receiver ring and watch the bolt head rotate, and the lugs fully lock. On a bolt that is assembled wrong, only about 1/6 of the lugs will be fully locked, and you can see this quite clearly.
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In case you decide you ever want to start taking the bolt itself apart, you might want to read and save this for future reference... 
There's an outstanding article by "PerversPépère", on Ross M-10 Rifle Bolt Disassembly (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=298-Ross-M-10-Rifle-Bolt-Disassembly and the dangers of doing it incorrectly. It may be found under the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/content.php...esearch-for-milsurp-collectors-and-re-loaders forum of the Milsurp Knowledge Libraries.
Regards,
Doug
There's an outstanding article by "PerversPépère", on Ross M-10 Rifle Bolt Disassembly (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=298-Ross-M-10-Rifle-Bolt-Disassembly and the dangers of doing it incorrectly. It may be found under the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/content.php...esearch-for-milsurp-collectors-and-re-loaders forum of the Milsurp Knowledge Libraries.
Regards,
Doug
