Ross rifle

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springer1

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I have a rifle that I believe to be a Ross M1910 Mark III. I don't know much about these rifles but am starting to get very curious from what I have been reading. I was originally thinking about trading this rifle but am thinking about keeping it. I was wondering what it would honestly be worth - it's not perfect! If I kept it I would only be using it for occasionally taking out to the range for fun.

Here's the details as best as I can tell:

- I think it's a mark III because of the protruding clip.
- It's been sporterized to about 25 3/4" barrel length.
- The stock is very good condition except for a crack at the muzzle end that is on both sides (that's why the black tape is on it).
- Front site has a hood over it.
- The bore seems well defined but dark.
- Flip up site works well and action seems to work tightly and smoothly.
- There is a pin in the bolt on the left side ahead of the rear sight.
- On the chamber and receiver along with a few insignias it says " Not English Make".

So basically I'm wondering what do I really have here and what is it worth. I'm not really a millitary collector although I do own several lee enfields, SKS, etc. If its nothing special I may just clean it up and use it as a shooter.

Let me know what you think !
Thanks
 
Glad to see you found the right place to look for answers! Folks here will tell you strait. I did my best.
Pete
PS It's a nice looking gun. I'll give ya ten bucks for the rooster. lol
 
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Thanks
That's about what i was thinking, although i'll propably epoxy the wood and clean out the bore as best as i can. The rooster is staying with me for now !
 
Yup, you're quite right all the way: it's a sporterized Mark III or Model 1910 Ross Rifle. Eats common .303 calibre ammo.

There were a lot of these sold as sporters after the Second War.

Pin in the bolt prevents the bolt from being reassembled improperly. Actually, it makes reassembly darned difficult, but also makes IMPROPER reassembly impossible.

Take it to the range after you have repaired the stock. I am shooting this one's twin right now, with an old 10x Weaver on top, and getting rather nice groups from a 90-year-old barrel. With jacketed bullets I am getting just about 1 MOA and also getting roughly 2 MOA with cast-bullet handloads.

Rosses are a LOT of fun....... best fun you can have out of bed without going to jail!
 
Yup, just ordinary .303 British, which I call just ".303" because we're not British and we used it, too.

If you are handloading, you will find the Ross to be very versatile as regards what it will eat. With a 180-grain bullet at about 2250 ft/sec, you should be coming close to your best accuracy. But the things can surprise you; one of mine really likes pressure and is turning in very good groups with loadings that about duplicate factory performance for the .308.
But the best accuracy I have had is with a Sierra 180 at 2250, which is well below factory specs, seated out to the length of a military Mark VII Ball round. This seats the bullet a bit out and crowds the leade just a bit, shoots really nice.
But you don't have to do that..... just head down to the hardware store and pick up a box of ordinary shells and see what she'll do.

And be sure to keep the rest of us posted; it's always nice to know that more people are finding that Rosses are NOT the terrible things that they have been told.
 
Thanks for the info.
You know the more i look at that old rifle the more i like it. I have found a couple more ross m-10's in the area this week alone just from talking to guys and most people think the bolt will fly backwards. I just may go on a shopping spree and buy them up this winter.
 
Make sure you pour boiling water down the barrel after shooting old milsurp ammo. Corrosive primers will rust the barrel fast if you don't wash out the residues.
 
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