Ruger 10/22 Bolt and Receiver sanding and polishing
- Thread starter Marilius
- Start date
O and I laid various grits of sand paper up to 3000 on a table for the bolt. The wrapped the bolt in sand paper and put it the reciever and slid it back and for with progressively finer grits, then hit it with my dremel polishing kit. Reflective as mirror when I was done. And don't over do it you dont want open the tolerances up too much.
Did you radius it at the back where the bolt contacts the hammer? I polished up my bolt and receiver and it made a big difference but I'd be interested in trying to radius it also.
elimsprint
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kelowna, BC
Not to be a party pooper or anything but I hope you are only doing this for cosmetic reasons and not to make your gun cycle better. The bolt polish may, and I say may, help a little but any work done inside the receiver is just wasted as the only areas the bolt runs on you can't really polish. Radiusing the back of the bolt and polishing that area plus the hammer face will do more for reliability than any amount of polishing anywhere else IMO. Also polishing the inside of the receiver will just remove material that will weaken the receiver for no gain to you. The steel bolt will quickly polish the areas it runs on in your alloy receiver and then just proper lubrication will keep it running smooth as silk. I do polish the right side of the bolt that you can see in the ejection port if that is the look I am going for but only for cosmetic reasons.
If party pooping saves me hours of polishing areas that won't assist in cycling, I can't complain. I think I still will proceed with some of the cosmetic polishing, since I like shiny things. And I'll do some research on this radiusing of the bolt. Don't want to ruin anything.
Taking paint off the inside of the receiver and polishing the contact points will help smooth out the action As well as a polished chamfer while your at it do your hammer face i can tear mine apart and post pics if you like.
on the top of the bolt
this is the radius or chamfer you heard about
this is easy to do take a 1/8 plate and lay the bolt and flat and mark a line on the top of the plate then do the same on the the bottom so youll have two marks one on the top and one on the bottom an 1/8 from the back.
youll need to polish the radius after you grind it in then polish the flat as well where it rides over the hammer
this is the left side of the bolt (opposite of ejection port)
this isn't a high polish its just to even it out and take down the high spots.
this is the face of the hammer I polished that since the bolt rides over it,my entire trigger group is actually polished I just did it when I did a trigger and for bling factor
this is the inside of my receiver I polished off the paint where the bolt rides and it made a huge difference I know yours is ss so it shouldn't matter
this is just the stuff I polished up on the action,if your looking at trigger work that's a different story. the best way to polish is to place your sandpaper on a piece of glass and move the bolt over it instead of the sandpaper over the bolt. aside from the right hand side of the bolt (ejection side) you don't want a mirror shine otherwise you might affect function in a negative way you just want to take the high spots out and smooth it out. Grab a jar of mothers mag polish to do the final work on it after you run through your sand paper grits.
this is the radius or chamfer you heard about
this is easy to do take a 1/8 plate and lay the bolt and flat and mark a line on the top of the plate then do the same on the the bottom so youll have two marks one on the top and one on the bottom an 1/8 from the back.
youll need to polish the radius after you grind it in then polish the flat as well where it rides over the hammer
this is the left side of the bolt (opposite of ejection port)
this isn't a high polish its just to even it out and take down the high spots.
this is the face of the hammer I polished that since the bolt rides over it,my entire trigger group is actually polished I just did it when I did a trigger and for bling factor
this is the inside of my receiver I polished off the paint where the bolt rides and it made a huge difference I know yours is ss so it shouldn't matter
this is just the stuff I polished up on the action,if your looking at trigger work that's a different story. the best way to polish is to place your sandpaper on a piece of glass and move the bolt over it instead of the sandpaper over the bolt. aside from the right hand side of the bolt (ejection side) you don't want a mirror shine otherwise you might affect function in a negative way you just want to take the high spots out and smooth it out. Grab a jar of mothers mag polish to do the final work on it after you run through your sand paper grits.
elimsprint
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kelowna, BC
The SS ones are still alloy and have a clear coat on them which is like paint. I just feel the bolt will take off receiver material wherever it binds with or without your polishing efforts so an interior polish is a waste and maybe somewhat detrimental but for sure do the polish on the top wear plates in pic one above. Plus the radius/polish of course
Mine really helped, there was more paint on the inside then the outside its butter smooth now.
