Ruger 1022 Trigger group pins?

Thanks, I just bought a ruger chassis and receiver . It was missing the trigger group pins and the screw that hold the barrel in. I've got the parts ordered from Dlask but that'll take about ten days to get here.
 
In the past when I've lost pins (looking at you Mosin trigger pin!) what I've done is buy the cheapy bulk pack of drill bits from Crappy Tire, picked one that fit and cut it to length. Has never failed me.
 
MCon said:
In the past when I've lost pins (looking at you Mosin trigger pin!) what I've done is buy the cheapy bulk pack of drill bits from Crappy Tire, picked one that fit and cut it to length. Has never failed me.
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Ha, I waS looking at them yesterday , wondering if they would be good to use. I'm also missing the takedown screw, which is proving to be much harder to find.
 
if your ordering from Dlask get a take down from him, he has nice nex head ones, the stock ones are flat and i HATE those, always chip something when doing those flat head screws!
 
3/16 cold rolled stainless rod from Home Depot or Rona should work. A better option if you have the right tool supplier is 3/16 drill rod which has a tighter tolerance and will prove to be a better fit. Best of all would be the heat treated and ground finish dowel pins from a machinist's supply place.

I tend to not like the cut off drill bit idea for a couple of reasons. First off is that the stamped lettering in the shank likely needs to be dressed to remove the ridges. Secondly is that drill bits are lightly but definitely tapered so the shank of them is a couple of thousandths smaller than the proper size. And the proper size for the dowel pins is a proper and honest 3/16 inch.

Because of the way the trigger group is done in the Ruger slightly loose pins won't produce any trigger issues. But it will result in a slight rattle of the trigger group in the receiver. To avoid this by all means use the stainless or bright finished 3/16 rod from Home Depot or Rona for now. But if it's a less than ideal fit order up the proper pins from any aftermarket Ruger parts supplier and fit them when they come in.
 
I got a couple of pins from the nut and bolt shop. But they're not completely solid., kind of like a tube , with a slit in them. They fit really snug . I think they'll do until the pins and takedown screw , I ordered from Dlask gets here. Thanks for all the help. image.jpg
 

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I had to tap the pins in with a small hammer, they are really snug. Used a Robbie # 2 screw for the takedown. But just discovered that there's no screw for the pistol grip.... The bottom rail has one extra hole and the screw is twice as long, but to skinny to catch the thread on the forearm. Any idea why they have this extra hole and longer screw with the bottom rail?
 
Those are split pins and they are set up to be slightly larger than the nominal size of the hole and tapping them into place is the proper method.

They are actually better than the solid pins provided you can live with the need to tap them out with a pin punch instead of just slipping them in and out.
 
BCRider said:
Those are split pins and they are set up to be slightly larger than the nominal size of the hole and tapping them into place is the proper method.

They are actually better than the solid pins provided you can live with the need to tap them out with a pin punch instead of just slipping them in and out.
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Yes they fit really nice, no movement at all. Once they got started they fit in really good. ( and I know the corect name of them.... Thanks) :)
 
Come to think of it there is a downside when used for a 10/22.

Because the split pins are intended for use in parts that are taken apart only very seldom and because you're using them in alloy and plastic the extra pressure from the split pins is going to force the holes in the trigger group open over a number of insertions and removals. It's fine if you only do this once every few years. But if you're the sort that cleans the trigger group more often than this you'll find that the trigger group will eventually become loose on the pins. That's where the proper size solid pins is better.
 
BCRider said:
Come to think of it there is a downside when used for a 10/22.

Because the split pins are intended for use in parts that are taken apart only very seldom and because you're using them in alloy and plastic the extra pressure from the split pins is going to force the holes in the trigger group open over a number of insertions and removals. It's fine if you only do this once every few years. But if you're the sort that cleans the trigger group more often than this you'll find that the trigger group will eventually become loose on the pins. That's where the proper size solid pins is better.
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I've got a couple pins ordered from Dlask , so when I take out the split pins I'll replace with the proper pin.
 
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