Ruger Gp100 or S&W 686

medic3

medic3

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I'm looking into purchasing a new revolver and I narrowed it down to 2. I looking at the Ruger GP100 blued 6", I like it because it's blued not stainless. The other is the S&W 686PP or 686 Plus 7 shot, I know the S&W has the better reputation but I'm looking for different opinions of people that have both or have experience with both.

Thanks
 
"...has the better reputation..." Nope. Smith has lost a lot of their reputation after putting extra unnecessary parts in their revolvers.
In any case, it's a matter of which one fits your hand better. Both will need a trigger job out of the box. Both will shoot equally as well, once you either work up a load or find the brand of factory ammo each shoots best.
The GP is stronger and easier to work on without needing special tools. The S&W needs a special tool to get the rebound slide assembly out easily.
 
I've got two 686's and find them to be very comfortable and shoot very well. The 6 shot will be much easier to find speed loaders for. I found that a trigger job is nessesary on the 686's to milk that extra bit of accuracy out of them. I've got a 5 month old MINT S&W 686 with trigger job done up for sale now for $775 if your interested?
 
I have a 686 and this gun is perfect in everyway, the only draw back is too accurate and make boring. handled the GP 100 and to be honest I couldn't really find much different. The guy own that GP shoot as good as my 686, the only thing is the price NIB, GP is cheaper and and a nice looking blued model.

Trigun
 
sunray said:
"...has the better reputation..." Nope. Smith has lost a lot of their reputation after putting extra unnecessary parts in their revolvers.
In any case, it's a matter of which one fits your hand better. Both will need a trigger job out of the box. Both will shoot equally as well, once you either work up a load or find the brand of factory ammo each shoots best.
The GP is stronger and easier to work on without needing special tools. The S&W needs a special tool to get the rebound slide assembly out easily.[/QUOTE]

Not exactly true, you can use a slotted screwdriver just as easily. I have done it, but yes I do have the rebound spring tool.

The Smith is easier to get a decent trigger on, if you know what you are doing.
Click to expand...
 
I posted the exact thread last year when I was undecided, I didnt know which of the two revolvers to get. I got a 50-50 response from the members here at CGN. So I did the best thing, I went to my shooting club and rented both the guns and found the Smith and Wesson to be the one I liked better. Lighter, better trigger and felt great in my hand.
I didnt need to change anything on that gun and its very accurate.
If you have the opportunity to try them both it will be an easy decision for you too because when it comes to handguns and you got 2 similar guns that you are undecided which one you want to get, the best thing is to put both guns in your hand before you make your purchase.
 
i was just about to post about after market grip selection.. not much out there for the ruger, but i like the factory grip personally.

you name it..its out there for the s&w.

plus if you want to mount an optic the s&w is drilled and tapped under the rear sight assembly. leupold makes a good mount. i'm not sure about the ruger.
 
I have owned both the S&W 686 and the Ruger GP-100 for the last 15 yrs, and I`ve never had a problem with either. Both are very accurate and reliable. I can`t say if todays S&W 686`s are of lesser quality, but I would give the Ruger a slight edge in ruggedness. Buy whichever is cheaper, and be happy. Or buy both, and be very happy...:)

"The greatest weapon of mass destruction is.....a Politician with an idea."
 
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