Ruger m77 Bedding

Is there a reason to not do the entire action?

I did my GSR, and it’s not like it’s that much more difficult to do the whole thing....

You will at the very least want the entire receiver lug bedded and the entire rear tang (especially where screws attach the bottom metal to the action). What’s left between the 2 at that point?

John
 
On a Ruger 77 it is best to bed the forward inch of the barrel chamber area also, to provide support against torqueing the action in the stock by that angled action screw.
 
I bought a Ruger in 6mm Remington with the tang safety around 1977.
One day it would group under two inches and the next it would run beyond 5".
Read an article in a gun magazine where a flat plumber's washer was fitted between the action and the stock via the angled action screw.
I traded the rifle before trying the fix but the author was having the same problems but I still wonder if it would have been a fix.
 
I would imagine it has something to do with the pressure point at the front of the barrel and being inconsistent. I plan to remove the pressure point fully float the barrel and bed the action if it shoots acceptable I will leave it and if it doesn't back to the drawing board.
 
.... Before you go too far with adding permanent bedding, it might be worthwhile to try a quick shim under the barrel at the fore-ends tip. A doubled over business card can probably be slipped under with the bolts slacked off then tightened. If it doesn't work, then it's easy enough to remove with no harm done....... David K PS I've a Ruger Tang safety, in .270 that's a true MOA rifle, stock out of the box.
 
Rugers have an unusual bedding system. The only support forward of the recoil lug is provided by the end of the stock. This can be problematic for several reasons, particularly if the stock is warped. Putting bedding support directly in front of the lug, and free floating the balance of the barrel solved my issues.
 
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