Ruger Mark III ??

Each time I shoot my Ruger Mark III Hunter, I take it apart for the clean up, each time...., it is clean as it was brand new.....2000 rounds + in it....., it is not so hard to do, you just need a rubber hammer put down the barrel and put it back, that's it, once apart it is very very easy to have access to all parts, the ''inside'' rail can be apart also ( the spring with the ''u'' shape part).

to put it back together, you need to follow the steps ......., go on yutube, great videos..., make sure to understand why steps needs to be followed (check how the parts react and you will understand the mecanism)......, like I said previously, you will need patience the first time.....

What tools to you use beside the rubber mallet? Also is that the type of rubber mallet you buy from Home Depot or is it a special one?

Thanks T
 
I only need the rubber mallet, any typical one from Home Depot - Canadian Tire - etc..., not a special one, the usual rubber one for mecanics...., that's the only tool required.

First you remove the special part behind the hand, then remove the ''inside'' rail fire pin, after that, to remove the barrel from the hand frame, take the rubber mallet and tap to the rear of the barrel (before doing it, take notice of the gap which the barrel goes over off the frame hand, you will have to put it back up to this gap...), don't worry, couple of goog tap will be required..... MAKE SURE TO NOT HAVE THE MAG IN IT WHEN TAPPING, the magazine MUST be remove for this action..., caution ... make sure that the barrel will fall on something smooth....

to reasembly, take back the mallet, and tap hard on front of the barrel up to the exact same gap after the hand frame, don't worry, tap hard, you won't break it !!!! :)

put back the inside rail, be easy, don't force it .......it must go smooth in it, ooooohhhhh ... just before doing it put your finger inside the rear barrel to push down the trigger action horizontally......,

take the gun, point upward and insert the ''fitting'' at the rear back of the handle, if it won't goes, look in the rear slide of the hand, the small pin should be vertically pointing down, freelly from the small rod upper next to the frame.... Also, I forgot to mention that maybe you will have to push back really far the trigger action.... back to the small pin...

Patience,.........don't force anything (except the barrel with the mallet.... )
 
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I use a paperclip and standard rubber mallet to fully detail strip mine.

Paperclip is to pull the tab on the mainspring. (back of grip)
 
I own a 22/45
Pros: Accurate, no malfunctions except for the first hundred rounds
Con: The grip is very thin

But it will accept all kinds of after-market grips made for the 1911s.............. (which the Mark III that is non-22/45 will not do)
Make sure you get the model number that ends with RP (Replaceable Panels).
 
But it will accept all kinds of after-market grips made for the 1911s.............. (which the Mark III that is non-22/45 will not do)
Make sure you get the model number that ends with RP (Replaceable Panels).

Previously said, I found a ''Hogue'' grip for my Mark III, really smooth rubber grip, very confortable (right hand grip)....., Hogue are doing great grips for any guns.....
 
You can download the manual from Ruger's website and a good video was posted in the pistol forum a little while ago. Do a search. Don't worry about swapping out grips or modifying your pistol until you've put a few thousand rounds through it. You might find that you are not grip sensitive and that your grips work fine for you.
 
Previously said, I found a ''Hogue'' grip for my Mark III, really smooth rubber grip, very confortable (right hand grip)....., Hogue are doing great grips for any guns.....

I have about four different sets of 1911 grips. At the range some members think I have four different Mark III 22/45s.............
And sometimes, the right grip will not be matched with the left grip.
I do have a Hogue rubber grip with finger grooves (but it's for my Ruger Single-six). Great grips.
 
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