Ruger Number 1 Specialist?

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Does anyone know the most knowlegeable gunsmith for the Ruger #1 in Canada? Thanks in advance!
 
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Without knowing what it is you're looking for, other than someone familiar with the Ruger No1 system, it's going to be difficult to point you in any direction.

Several "good" smiths in Canada can do most work on Ruger No1 systems.

There are a few who are experts or at least understand how to fix the issues that go along with No1 rifles.

Ron Smith is a fine smith and does excellent work if you can get him to take on the job. Like many, he's getting long in the tooth but hasn't lost his touch.

Chris Weber of Weber & Markin Gunsmiths in Kelowna is very good, as is Barry from bitsofpieces in Delta.
 
bearhunter said:
Without knowing what it is you're looking for, other than someone familiar with the Ruger No1 system, it's going to be difficult to point you in any direction.

Several "good" smiths in Canada can do most work on Ruger No1 systems.

There are a few who are experts or at least understand how to fix the issues that go along with No1 rifles.

Ron Smith is a fine smith and does excellent work if you can get him to take on the job. Like many, he's getting long in the tooth but hasn't lost his touch.

Chris Weber of Weber & Markin Gunsmiths in Kelowna is very good, as is Barry from bitsofpieces in Delta.
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I know Ron, I've been to his shop twice however, did not know that Ruger #1's was in his broad knowledge of firearms. I find that my newly aquired Ruger #1 is lethargic in lock-time, would also like to have the trigger weight reduced from 3 lbs to 1.5 lbs. Thanks to you and Piker for the tip!
 
I had heard from a guy who shoots with Ron that he hates Ruger #1's :).

I used to own a Ruger #1 benchrest rifle that he put one of his 8 groove .32-40 barrels on. It was a really accurate rifle, it just suffered from a poor trigger. I probably should not have sold it.

Chris.
 
gunlaker said:
I had heard from a guy who shoots with Ron that he hates Ruger #1's :).

I used to own a Ruger #1 benchrest rifle that he put one of his 8 groove .32-40 barrels on. It was a really accurate rifle, it just suffered from a poor trigger. I probably should not have sold it.

Chris.
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I read that JARD triggers are great for the Ruger #1's, I don't know who sells them in Canada, that's something I have to research. I'm aware that of the big gunshow in Calgary this Easter, I'll also inquire there as well, usually some gunmakers are present.
 
I put a Jard trigger in my Ruger #1 -- a big improvement.
I actually bought 3 of them from EABCO in the US.
There used to be someone in the US selling a lightened hammer / stronger mainspring for a #1, they refused to ship to Canada though.
 
The lock time is addressed by lightening the hammer. This is accomplished by reducing the weight of the stock hammer or replacing the hammer with a lighter one. The trigger is adjustable but limited. To get down to the 1.5 pound range, some modification of the trigger is required. It is necessary to reduce the sear engagement, and usually, replace the spring. When the sear engagement is reduced, it's often necessary to make some adjustment to the safety as well.
The Rugers from the first few years of production were more adjustable than later on.
 
I didn’t care for the jard I had, it had poor fit and finish, all the edges were sharp, and it had lots of side to side play when in the rifle.

I have had kepplingers, which along with canjar are probably the nicest but they are hard to find and expensive if you do.

I think your best bang for buck was the original ruger trigger with the sear engagement screw - there was a company making (kinda rough) copies of the original sold through brownells but I can’t remember the name or if they still offer them. Moyers?

There was also a company (moulds?) selling at least 2 versions of lightened hammers (I think I still have one in my parts) but like Leeper suggested I think getting your smith to lighten the factory hammer is a good solution to the problem.
 
I once owned a #1 ... I reworked the trigger down to about a pound and a half... and pretty crisp, drilled a lot out of the the hammer. Re-barrelled and did all the accuracy work. It's all pretty much straight forward work for a smith with a little experience... shot very well but not as well as a 700.
 
Jonnyofalltrades said:
Those are probably all the same guys that hate leverguns.
One man's poison....
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Not really, they are just very frustrating to work on, and if you happen to have one with the "crappy" Wilson barrels there is no way to get it to shoot well, other than to replace the barrels. Ruger made a huge mistake going to those barrels.
 
I like the No.1 and one of the best shooting hunting rifles I ever had was a Ruger No.1. They sometimes needed some gunsmithing but since I was one, that didn't bother me either. If the barrel sucked, I would lap it. Let's face it, most gunsmiths are more comfortable putting barrels on 700 clones than anything else. Falling blocks and levers are outside their comfort zone. People often hate what they don't understand. By the way, I mean no criticism of the many 'smiths who concentrate on working with modern bolt actions. Their skills are just reflected in a specialized area.
 
I didn't mind working on # 1's. Kind of looked forward to the project. My first #1 re barrel was in 1971 when I made a 17-222 Rem. Shortly after that a friend bought a 6mm Rem (probably the first one in Canada) with beautiful wood and a chamber and throat that were so large a neck sizing die full length sized the fired case... and you could only seat 100 grain bullet 1/8 of an inch into the neck. Never shot great but he kept it for 30 years... I think the last one I did was on a huge case... quite possibly a 338 Lapua...
 
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