Ruger Precision Muzzle Break help.

RocKeTRicH

RocKeTRicH

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Hey guys have a question on 5/8"×24 threaded Ruger Precision .308 barrel. I attempted to install a break off of a savage 110BA with same thread pattern but it seems really tight on start of threading. The threads look good inside of the break. Other rifles I have with different thread patterns thread on smoothly with hardly any effort. Should I take brake to a smith for remachining of the 5/8"×24 female threads of the break. Or do some M breaks go on tight. Any input out there would be appreciated.
 
When I threaded on my Flash hider on to my RPR it was pretty tight from beginning to end. Just make sure you wipe down the threads and Brake with a bit of oil to clean it. I also used a bit of grease to ensure it didn't seize up. As long as you are sure that the thread pattern is correct and that you are not cross threading put it on!
 
Walnutz said:
Where is a good place to get a brake for these rifles?? Nothing to pricey just want one for when the kids and wife wanna shoot it. thanks!!
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I've been looking for a brake for my RPR in 308. Found a really nice one at Alberta Tactical Rifle Supply:

http://albertatacticalrifle.com/hikashop-menu-for-categories-listing/product/47-atrs-ar10-muzzle-brake/category_pathway-86

I got my scope rings from these guys, and their quality is excellent. Probably on par with high end precision stuff that can easily cost double the price.
 
RocKeTRicH said:
Hey guys have a question on 5/8"×24 threaded Ruger Precision .308 barrel. I attempted to install a break off of a savage 110BA with same thread pattern but it seems really tight on start of threading. The threads look good inside of the break. Other rifles I have with different thread patterns thread on smoothly with hardly any effort. Should I take brake to a smith for remachining of the 5/8"×24 female threads of the break. Or do some M breaks go on tight. Any input out there would be appreciated.
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Take it to a Smith and have it fitted properly.
 
I concur with earlier posters. I bought my 6.5 CM RPR brake from ATRS. And in keeping with their world-class service, Dustin installed it at no extra charge. It is a TIGHT fit and so you will need a fixture to hold the rifle rock solid to crank it on. Best advice - get a 'smith to install it. Better advice - buy the ATRS brake and ask them to do it for you. I guarantee that you'll be very pleased with the result.
 
I do not like for the brake threads to be too tight as it will actually compress the bore. A brake should screw on by hand to the point contact with the shoulder on the barrel.
 
Leeper said:
I do not like for the brake threads to be too tight as it will actually compress the bore. A brake should screw on by hand to the point contact with the shoulder on the barrel.
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I agree... I think 60 degree threads are best with a fit that can be done by fingers and once the shoulders contact a tool can be used to tighten it a bit more. This applies to barrel/action fit as well.

I like the looks of this style of brake over all the butt ugly 'tactical' brakes...

It's more of a varmint brake but it does perform well.

The 3/16" holes are angled forward slightly...

preview_sendero_indexed_brake_side_view-0.jpg
 
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That's a nice brake. I make my indexed brakes with slots rather than holes and bias the slots toward the top of the brake. One pair of holes to fit the "special tool" (a Phillips screwdriver with a 3/16 shank).
 
RocKeTRicH said:
Hey guys have a question on 5/8"×24 threaded Ruger Precision .308 barrel. I attempted to install a break off of a savage 110BA with same thread pattern but it seems really tight on start of threading. The threads look good inside of the break. Other rifles I have with different thread patterns thread on smoothly with hardly any effort. Should I take brake to a smith for remachining of the 5/8"×24 female threads of the break. Or do some M breaks go on tight. Any input out there would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

I have an ATRS brake that I bought used (came off a modern hunter) and it was snug to thread on to my RPR. The threads on the rifle and brake were clean and had no indication of burrs or having been cross threaded. I was able hand tighten the brake onto the rifle and then time it properly (after some filing of the crush washer) before the final tightening with a wrench. I will mention that once the brake was threaded on all the way it was much easier to remove and reapply for final tightening.
 
I just received my Terminator T2 brake after waiting over a month... (Thanks alot Canada Post for losing the first shipment!) Just fired 40 rounds through it last weekend and all I can say is WOW! Awesome brake! Totally removes any recoil and my 6.5 shoots like a .22LR

I've got an APA on my Remi 700 in 308 and it's pretty good as well but the T2B is a little better in my opinion.
 
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