rust blueing

[sealevel]

will rust blueing work on post 64 94 winchester receivers ??

 

[philhut]

Do you mean cold blueing? Ie you strip the metal of grease then apply blueing agent let sit for approx 10-15min submerge in water/dry and buff with fine steel wool... it works on all gun metal that I have put it on (steel).

Take the metal parts out of the action and strip them to their base parts as best you can then do each part 1 by 1. An air compressor helps to dry. Do not rush treat only the number of parts you can manage to apply blue sit for 10/15 wet/dry/buff. Several coats are usually requires depending how stripped the metal is. It does start to look good after several applications.

I have touched up the blueing on my Norinco JW25a if that steel can retouched anything can.

 

[Tungsten316]

I have done rust blueing on a couple of cooey 12g one took very well and the other not so much the only way to tell is to try it . From my experience which is limited rust blueing is hit or miss depending on your material and technique. I used peroxide and salt to rust the receiver than dipped in boiling distilled water. Rinse and repeat and it will get darker. Also I found that a slow rust ie leaving something in moist environment for a few days, will set up darker than something that was rusted quickly in a few minutes with peroxide.

 

[hunter5425]

Rust bluing seems to like a matt finish not polished for it to take well. There is a product I've heard of called Radocyl sp??? that is supposed to speed up and simplify the process somewhat. It works especially well for shotguns with soft soldered ribs that can't take the temp of hot bluing. It should work on any non stainless steel.

 

[sealevel]

Do you mean cold blueing? Ie you strip the metal of grease then apply blueing agent let sit for approx 10-15min submerge in water/dry and buff with fine steel wool... it works on all gun metal that I have put it on (steel).

Take the metal parts out of the action and strip them to their base parts as best you can then do each part 1 by 1. An air compressor helps to dry. Do not rush treat only the number of parts you can manage to apply blue sit for 10/15 wet/dry/buff. Several coats are usually requires depending how stripped the metal is. It does start to look good after several applications.

I have touched up the blueing on my Norinco JW25a if that steel can retouched anything can.

no i mean old fashioned cold rust blueing

 

[gunrunner100]

no i mean old fashioned cold rust blueing

As in a "damp box" set up?
Post 64 receivers had an alloy in them that did not take bluing well.

 

[Garaldtao]

As in a "damp box" set up?
Post 64 receivers had an alloy in them that did not take bluing well.

My thoughts exactly. When you mention rust bluing I think steam box also.

 

[BigUglyMan]

Do you mean cold blueing? Ie you strip the metal of grease then apply blueing agent let sit for approx 10-15min submerge in water/dry and buff with fine steel wool... it works on all gun metal that I have put it on (steel).

Take the metal parts out of the action and strip them to their base parts as best you can then do each part 1 by 1. An air compressor helps to dry. Do not rush treat only the number of parts you can manage to apply blue sit for 10/15 wet/dry/buff. Several coats are usually requires depending how stripped the metal is. It does start to look good after several applications.

I have touched up the blueing on my Norinco JW25a if that steel can retouched anything can.

That's not at all what he was talking about. Rust (fume) bluing is a completely different process than cold bluing.

 

[oneadam12]

It's about the only thing works on the pre '64's well, should work on the post. The post '64 stuff doesn't take the salt bath or cold blues at all.