Rust blueing
- Thread starter evster
- Start date
canadian hunter312
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Brant County
you can buy the liquid or paste bluing. its as easy as stripping the old bluing (not neccesary all the time), using a degreaser and then applying the bluing. a few coats of bluing at least.
pretty simple to do but one small thing such as not degreasing an area can result in starting over.
pretty simple to do but one small thing such as not degreasing an area can result in starting over.
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
Are you talking about cold blueing or cold rust blueing? The first comes in a tube as mentioned and you just smear it on and wipe it off, then buff. The other involves a long process of repeated dipps in solution with about 24 hours between dip, then buff with steel wool and repeat. It can be gorgeous if done right but it is very time consuming. I haven't tried it myself. From what I've read, it takes at least two weeks.
PerversPépère
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Shawinigan (Quebec)
Rust Blueing
Rust blueing is another way of getting a hard oxide layer on the surface of ferrous metals like steel.
It is different because it involves a very special process that promotes in the first time a very fine red rusting of the surface then getting rid of the loose rust by brushing with a bronze brush and completing the oxydation of the remaining rust by plunging the parts to be blued in boiling deionized water.
The process is repeated over and over until there is no more metal to rust because it is fully covered by a layer of hematite, a very hard, dense and stable iron oxide.
It is the same oxyde you can find in jewelry, very often in necklaces: heavy little beads of dark grey color.
It doesn't require a big investment in materials; only rust blueing solution, a rusting cabinet (a big PVC tube with water at the bottom), a power wheel with fine-bristled bronze brush and a long through with gas ramp to boil water in it.
PP.
Rust blueing is another way of getting a hard oxide layer on the surface of ferrous metals like steel.
It is different because it involves a very special process that promotes in the first time a very fine red rusting of the surface then getting rid of the loose rust by brushing with a bronze brush and completing the oxydation of the remaining rust by plunging the parts to be blued in boiling deionized water.
The process is repeated over and over until there is no more metal to rust because it is fully covered by a layer of hematite, a very hard, dense and stable iron oxide.
It is the same oxyde you can find in jewelry, very often in necklaces: heavy little beads of dark grey color.
It doesn't require a big investment in materials; only rust blueing solution, a rusting cabinet (a big PVC tube with water at the bottom), a power wheel with fine-bristled bronze brush and a long through with gas ramp to boil water in it.
PP.
Another option is hot water bluing. The properly prepared steel is boiled in water. In the water is a jar of the bluing solution - so it is hot too. The part is removed, and should dry very rapidly. The solution is swabbed on, and the part returned to the boiling water. It is hauled out again, and carded down with degreased steel wool, or a fine degeased wire wheel. Back into the water, and repeat until the desired colour is obtained. This process can produce a superior finish, was used extensively before hot caustic blue became the industry standard, and is still used on double guns with soldered barrels. One product available in Canada is "Radocy". If you do a search, you will probably find contact information.
I have never used the process described by PerversPepere, but it is one of the classics, and can produce a fine finish. I have used the hot water process, and it works.
I have never used the process described by PerversPepere, but it is one of the classics, and can produce a fine finish. I have used the hot water process, and it works.
evster said:
Rust bluing, in a way similar to other bluing process, creates a layer of black oxide on the surface of steel. However the rusting process happens in the atmosphere with help of chemicals and moisture. At first the rust is red oxide, which is then boiled in water, converts into black oxide.
Slow rust bluing involves the following steps.
1. Remove old bluing.
2. Polish metal to at least a 320 finish
3. Degrease the metal
4. Apply the bluing solution
5. Allow the piece to rust from 3-12 hours in a warm, humid invironment. The time needed depends on the bluing solution and the amount of moisture in the air.
6. Boil the piece for 10-15 minutes in distilled water to turn the red rust that forms to a black rust.
7. Card(scratch) the piece with fine steel-wool to remove the loose black rust.
8. Repeat steps 4 to 7 until the piece is completely blued(blacked).
9. Heavily coat with oil for 24 hours.
10. Remove the oil and wax or oil.
11. Shoot gun.
Obviously there is more to the process but the above steps cover the basics. One of the most important things to keep in mind is to avoid getting ANY grease or oil on the piece. This means wearing rubber gloves any time the piece is handled.
It is a time consuming process but actually, most of the time is spent waiting for the rust to form. Actual hands-on time is maybe 2 hours/day.
There is no boiling in caustic solutions.
There is a ton of information on the Web. Just Goggle "Rust Bluing"
There are lots of methods,this is not the best but it is the cheapest/quickest.
remouve all blueing, wire wheel,fine sanding, even bug dope(DEET will eat blueing )
Get metal as shiny and clean(acetone) then place in tank of APPLE Juice till it turns as black as you like,repeat if needed
Germans invented this method called PICKLING.
remouve all blueing, wire wheel,fine sanding, even bug dope(DEET will eat blueing )
Get metal as shiny and clean(acetone) then place in tank of APPLE Juice till it turns as black as you like,repeat if needed
Germans invented this method called PICKLING.
