Rust Bluing, surface preparation, steps, finish?

Well I'm on the test run tonight. I need to make some mods to my BBQ, it's an old junker so I'm going to slot it to let my tank sit right down in the flame. I'm also going to try running much less water in the tank on the second cycle. Other than that it seems to be coming, although I wonder if I didn't over do the polishing on a few components. The receiver walls and magazine aren't taking blue nearly like the rest are and it's coming a bit streaky. I tried PJs RB-17 solution on all the parts to degrease first, then acetone until the cotton swabs came spotless, all the while using gloves that I changed often. I'll bet it will start to even up after a few cycles?
 
I haven't used the Radocy product so I don't know how it bites onto a highly polished surface. In my experience and using slow rust bluing products, the chemicals have gotten right to work. One exception was a Post-64 Model 70 Win. The receiver on this rifle didn't want to rust and it wasn't until the third cycle that I had complete coverage. I don't think it was the polishing but rather the metelurgy that was the problem as all the metal had been polished equally and there was no streaking on the barrel or bottom metal.

One method I have used is to re-coat the metal with solution about 1 hour into the rust. I only do this if I have bare or thin areas in the rust.
 
Sounds good Mauser. I worked at it a bit again this morning, and after carding things looked pretty decent. I think after a few more cycles it will be a lot better. I'm still working on my boiling tank too, I'll be changing a few things tonight that I think will improve it and give er another go.
 
I have used the Radocy product. It is excellent. Not rust bluing, it is hot water process. Boil, apply, boil, card, boil, apply, boil, card, boil, apply, etc. Repeat until you get the colour you want. The piece should evaporate dry after it is pulled out of the boiling water before applying the solution. Apply as evenly as possible. Have the solution in a jar in the corner of the tank, so that it is hot, too.
Faster than rust bluing using a cabinet. Once you start, you keep going until done, no waiting for rust to form.
 
I still use lye for degreasing parts. 1 tbsp. to a gallon of water, and boil the parts for about 10 minutes. Home Hardware has the lye crystals. Rinse the parts well in hot water, dry, and coat with the bluing solution. Worked well for 40 years.l
 
Tiriaq, this finish is coming beautifully. It's almost as easy as cold blue. I hope it's as tough as a real rust blue though!

I'm stating to figure it out I think. I tried waiting until the parts evaporated to apply the solution, but on thin steel like the magazine box walls etc the steel is too cold by then for the solution to work. I've started pulling parts straight from the tank and attacking them instantly and I'm getting much much better results. I also did a bunch of tweaking to the burner and reduced the volume of water in the tank tonight and it's helped a lot. Got one cycle last night and two tonight. If I hadn't run out of propane (last of the BBQ bottle from this summer) I would have done 3 cycles. I really like this, it's fun!
 
Some results:

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For the thin parts that cool quickly, try using a heat gun. Hot water is not required at all. Hot is the important part. Hot water is just a handy way of accomplishing the task. Card it with steel wool and distilled water. Repeat as required. I've used a heat gun for this many times and the result is the same.

Mike
 
aawilson said:
Flying pig, great looking job!

Fastex and Mauser98, which rust bluing products do you use?
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My favorite rust bluing product is Gun Goddess from the Half Moon Rifle Shop, 490 Halfmoon Rd, Columbia Falls, Montana 59912. Phone 1 (406) 892-4409. The owner is Jim Baiar. He won't ship to Canada but will ship USPS to a border mail box. IIRC, $15.00/4 oz plus shipping.

Another product I like is Barrel Brown and Degreaser made by Laurel Mountain Forge. It can be purchased from Brownells and is the only bluing product that Brownells will ship to Canada by normal mail. $9.99/2 oz plus shipping.
 
Try putting a small "personal" size fan in the hot box set to run all the time. It mixes up the air and moisture and makes the climate inside more uniform. It can very quite a bit over the length of a barrel and action.
 
aawilson said:
Flying pig, great looking job!

Fastex and Mauser98, which rust bluing products do you use?
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I use an old formula I make my self , it's called " Niedner's Rust Blue" . PM me and I'll give you the formula , it's not hard to make but can be a problem finding the chemicals. It has worked very well for me over the years .
 
Ian Robertson said:
Try putting a small "personal" size fan in the hot box set to run all the time. It mixes up the air and moisture and makes the climate inside more uniform. It can very quite a bit over the length of a barrel and action.
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An incondecent light bulb, heating pad, or fish tank heater with a near by tray of water helps too I'm told
 
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