rust in my barrels, now what?!

ciphery

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I made the switch to G96 and have the dismay of discovering that it is a pi$$ poor protectant oil for short term storage.
What works best for you?
What do I do with the rusty bores now?
 
I us Ed's red for short term storage and a synthetic gun oil for longer term. To get the rust out ( hopefully there's no pitting) I'd use a penetrating oil such as Kroil to soften and remove the rust using a nylon brush to help it along.. I'd also be looking at a different storage area if possible to minimize the problem.
 
G96 didn't fail you... something else did... how are you storing them? Hell a rifle not cleaned after firing will store fine in any dry area.
 
Guntech is right x2. Unless your are using corrosive ammo.


There is a really good product out there called "SLICKER"

It's available from dewdneymountainproducts.ca if your local shop doesn't carry it.

It is a Sharp Shoot R Precision Products offering.

I highly recommend it for everything on a rifle or pistol that needs lubricating or rust protection in all firearms applications other than those concerning corrosive ammunition.

One thing I like about it is that it drys but still protects and lubricates but doesn't get tacky. Easily removed with alcohol or varsol etc.
 
Same here. It has worked well for me. In fact, before selling my two SKS, I dropped Hope 9 and was using G96 only to clean them after shooting crossives. Still doing the same with my two tt-33s. No rust to report. guntech is right, something else failed you.
 
For corrosive ammo I use boiling water then the old WWII GI Bore solvent

Not needed. That is how I started because others said so. It is amazing how people take an unsubstantiated claim and run with it. I did.

A thorough cleaning with hope 9 or any other good solvent the night of shooting is fine. But what do I know, suit yourself.
 
Who shoots corrosive ammo? It is something foreign to my rifles. I would never even think about chambering any of it.
 
Corrosive ammo is perfectly fine if you are willing to deal with cleaning your rifle the day you shoot it. I have shot corrosive ammo for over 5 years in my 7.62x39 rifle and the bore is as bright as the day that I purchased it.

I only use G96 to protect it after a proper cleaning and it will sometimes sit for up to a month.
 
One of my tt-33's hasn't been shot for over a year. I cleaned it last (after extensive corrosive shooting) with G96 only, a year ago. Recently detailed it just to make sure. Spanking clean. Not a hint of rust anywhere.
 
One of my tt-33's hasn't been shot for over a year. I cleaned it last (after extensive corrosive shooting) with G96 only, a year ago. Recently detailed it just to make sure. Spanking clean. Not a hint of rust anywhere.

My guess is that you have one with a chrome lined barrel. If so, that is the only thing that saved it from being destroyed by the salt residue.

A neighbor of mine had a beautiful early Cz-75 pistol and shot corrosive through it one day. He cleaned it well with some kind of bore cleaner followed by G96. Couple of weeks later he found it's bore ruined with lots of brown, rusty oil in the bore.

Salt is not soluble in oil! It is not washed out by most bore cleaners! That is why we clean with water first. Oil over top of that remaining salt residue will just give you wet rust instead of dry.
 
Not needed. That is how I started because others said so. It is amazing how people take an unsubstantiated claim and run with it. I did.

A thorough cleaning with hope 9 or any other good solvent the night of shooting is fine. But what do I know, suit yourself.

That corrosive primer residue needs water to dissolve it is not an "unsubstantiated claim". I suggest you start with Hatcher's Notebook, beginning on page 345. Polar substances like potassium chloride require polar solvents (water being the most polar substance). This isn't opinion, it's chemistry.

Particularly in dry climates, many people may get away with regular gun cleaning solvents because some of the salt is removed mechanically in the cleaning process and any residual oily film might provide a barrier against moisture for a while, but a water-based cleaner is the only way to guarantee that all corrosive residue is removed.
 
One of my tt-33's hasn't been shot for over a year. I cleaned it last (after extensive corrosive shooting) with G96 only, a year ago. Recently detailed it just to make sure. Spanking clean. Not a hint of rust anywhere.

After reading your post I checked the barrel on my TT33. It was clean & bright. While I had it apart I ran an oiled patch through it just in case. :)
 
The rust should come out with normal cleaning, but a bit of regular vinegar will take it out quickly.
Oil is not for storage at all. If you're storing for any time, use grease.
 
Not needed. That is how I started because others said so. It is amazing how people take an unsubstantiated claim and run with it. I did.

A thorough cleaning with hope 9 or any other good solvent the night of shooting is fine. But what do I know, suit yourself.

Nothing beat's that old solvent! It has a certain "aroma" to it, but I like it.
 
That corrosive primer residue needs water to dissolve it is not an "unsubstantiated claim". I suggest you start with Hatcher's Notebook, beginning on page 345. Polar substances like potassium chloride require polar solvents (water being the most polar substance). This isn't opinion, it's chemistry.
Correct. Petroleum based solvents won't remove corrosive salts but plain old hot water will. Then clean 'normally'.
 
I use reloads for my M44.
I've been experimenting with various powders
The bore of my M44 was by far the worst. It was full of orange/brown oil...that left small pitts :(
I HAD a mint non-issue polish M44....not so much now, funny thing is that there was 0 rust on the exterior surfaces of any of the rifles.
The 22's were all pretty good, The M70 was spotless (thank god, and silicone spray)
The flint lock had a very small amount around the flash hole and a small amount in the bore
The 870 has spots inside but cleaned out with some oiled 0000 steel wool

The M44 was by far the worst....and yet it was the last to be shot, cleaned and stored.
Not sure what to do about the bore on her...I have reservations about the use of steel wool on a rifle barrel and the bronze brush has not improved the bore much.....
A friend of mine put me onto engine fogging oil. It apparently works great for long term storage...but is a pain to clean up.
I've sopped the bores with ATF (Red part of Eds Red) for now but have yet to decide on what to use for long term.
Another friend has suggested melting vasaline and pouring the barrels full for long term storage, yet another has suggested a swab of alox (alox is a corrosion inhibitor by design not a bullet lube)
All I know is that I don't want to EVER find rust on or in a gun again.
 
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