Rust resisting a hunting rifle - CZ 557

gorby

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Greetings all,

I have the almost perfect hunting rifle, for me. CZ 557, walnut stock, smooth action, reliable, accurate, comfy, etc... etc...

Only issue is that I noticed after a week of hunting that it was starting to stain through the blueing as if rust was going to start. I oiled it up and it seems fine, but I want to take steps on what to do to prevent this in the future. I really like the rifle and I am OK putting some money/effort into it on cerakote or rebluing or whatever. Though I have not had issues, I am also interested in how I can treat the stock.

Realize that stainless and a plastic stock is the ultimate answer and I may build a mountain rifle in the future, but still want to make this one more resistant to rust.

Any thoughts appreciated!
 
My only advice is to keep wiping it down w oil after each use.
I have a 20ga shotgun that my dad gave me when I was 6.
It has a bit of color coming through but I've managed to keep it unchanged for about 20yrs now though consistent oiling.
I had a cz550 that in sunlight showed a very "brown" color in the bluing. Maybe that's it?
Can see in direct light but not in indirect? Food for thought
 
There are many great products out there that will protect your rifle. My favourite is G96. Give it a spray with G96 and then wipe down with a soft cloth before putting it away. It will keep rust and deterioration of the blueing to a minimum.

BTW: great gun. Here is mineIMG_1816.jpeg
 
There are many great products out there that will protect your rifle. My favourite is G96. Give it a spray with G96 and then wipe down with a soft cloth before putting it away. It will keep rust and deterioration of the blueing to a minimum.

BTW: great gun. Here is mineView attachment 1105108

I will pick up some and try it out!

Here is a pic of mine.
 

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My only advice is to keep wiping it down w oil after each use.
I have a 20ga shotgun that my dad gave me when I was 6.
It has a bit of color coming through but I've managed to keep it unchanged for about 20yrs now though consistent oiling.
I had a cz550 that in sunlight showed a very "brown" color in the bluing. Maybe that's it?
Can see in direct light but not in indirect? Food for thought

I will keep that in mind - hopefully that is it, now that it is all oiled up I cannot see the brown.
 
Haven't had issues with CZ or Brno rusting. Make sure you wipe down the rifle after use, especially after field use in rain. Having a wet gun and in a case is bad recipe. Wipe down with solvent then oil works fine when stored long term.

I haven't had this issue with my CZ rimfires, but I only use those for either a match or a morning grouse hunting. When I go hunting, I am sleeping in a van for a week and going out every day. I probably do need to be better about wiping it down every day.
 
Gorby, the best product going for stopping your "rust" issue, is a product from Birchwood Casey called "SHEATH."

It's under $10 for a can, which will likely last for the rest of your life, if you are only using it on one rifle.

It's silicone based and has stood up to the "gun show test." At gun shows there is always the person with "sweaty palms." Usually several, because they've just finished a granola bar or greasy burger, or they just have naturally sweaty hands. That sweat is ACIDIC, and it's the reason you see so many tables at shows have signs requesting people to ask before handling the firearms.

I use it on all of my firearms. One application before Spring Bear season and another before Fall hunting seasons. No rust, ever. It won't stain wood or etch composites, and it's great for scopes, but not on lenses. Won't hurt the lens, but it does leave protective film behind.
 
Make sure it's completely dry then wipe it down with a bit of oil (I just use ballistol) after every time you use it, before putting it away. Don't touch any metal with your hands when putting it back in the safe/on the gun rack after it's been wiped down.

Pull the action out of the stock and grease everything you can't reach during a normal wipedown.

Stock repends on what's there already but in any case try not to get oil on wood if you can help it when oiling the metal parts. Too much oil over a long period will cause deterioration of the wood.
 
Depending on your climate, install a Goldenrod dehumidifier rod in your safe. Great for peace of mind knowing that your guns have another level of protection.

I have one of those rods that plug in that fits in my safe, forget the brand. Is that a goldenrod? My home storage seems pretty good and I have not had rust appear at home.
 
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I use Ballistol because it's good on metal, wood and leather. Good for cleaning the bore as well. For rust preventative you would have to reapply if you were out in the rain.

For longer term as per bearhunter - Sheath (now called Barricade) would be an excellent product. But, it is no good on leather apparently.
 
Gorby, the best product going for stopping your "rust" issue, is a product from Birchwood Casey called "SHEATH."

It's under $10 for a can, which will likely last for the rest of your life, if you are only using it on one rifle.

It's silicone based and has stood up to the "gun show test." At gun shows there is always the person with "sweaty palms." Usually several, because they've just finished a granola bar or greasy burger, or they just have naturally sweaty hands. That sweat is ACIDIC, and it's the reason you see so many tables at shows have signs requesting people to ask before handling the firearms.

I use it on all of my firearms. One application before Spring Bear season and another before Fall hunting seasons. No rust, ever. It won't stain wood or etch composites, and it's great for scopes, but not on lenses. Won't hurt the lens, but it does leave protective film behind.

I don't advise silicon based anything for wood stocks. It makes it impossible to refinish.
 
I don't advise silicon based anything for wood stocks. It makes it impossible to refinish.
Only if it's "free silicone" where the molecules don't stick to anything. Originally produced to create a finish so smooth nothing would adhere, such as water and dust. I watched a demonstration on a car hood, where "free silicone" had been applied. If you set a jacket on the hood, it slid off the 5 degree slope, which is very close to flat.

You're right about not being able to refinish after a "free silicone" application. Sadly, other silicone treatments got a bad rap because of a similar name.

Sheath, now known as Barricade (thanx PaulT) uses a static type, enhanced with a petrolium based carrier. non toxic, no smell, just adds a nice luster to the wood and metal both, while still protecting the finish of both the metal and wood from sweat, rain, etc.
 
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