Rusty mould blocks
- Thread starter ChiliDawg
- Start date
jmichelin84
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Big Land, nL
From what I remember from Iron Scotch-Brite and or using hot oil and then Scotch Brite it
Pick up a litre of EvapoRust. It will remove all of the rust without any further damage.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
+1, the stuff works great.
muriatic acid RJ
Yeah, either full, or absolutely slathered in oil. Easier to clean off oil than rust.
FWIW, rust removal with household chemistry. Vinegar. Pour in a glass or plastic container. Table Salt. Mix as much in as will dissolve. Submerge the part. Completely! Or you will almost be able to watch the etch line form where there is an acid, an electrolyte, and oxygen, along the liquid/air boundary.
And try not to get a craving for fries! LOL!
Seriously, salt and vinegar, submerge the rusty part, let sit for anywhere from a couple hours to overnight, scrub off and rinse thoroughly, then treat for rust prevention.
Not as odorless as a kiddie pool full of wash soda water and a big DC power source, but pretty handy for small rusted parts that can fit in a container.
Ammo tin with a silca bag.
notsorichguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- The city that rhymes with fun
I leave my moulds full for storage and I’ve never been too concerned about surface rust on the outside of my moulds either....
All my casting stuff lives in an unheated shed, that only gets heat when I’m casting in the winter! What I’m trying to say, is that my moulds, melting pots etc. all see extreme fluctuation in humidity and temperature, and none of the equipment seems worse for the experience.
All my casting stuff lives in an unheated shed, that only gets heat when I’m casting in the winter! What I’m trying to say, is that my moulds, melting pots etc. all see extreme fluctuation in humidity and temperature, and none of the equipment seems worse for the experience.
I clean and oil my moulds as soon as they cool, using 'Lead-Away' cloth to remove and lead smears from sprue cutters and other surfaces. A pencil eraser is useful to clean cavities of larger cavities.
Stored cool and dry. Before use, I use carb cleaner to degrease them. Moulds I've used for 25 years look as good as new.
I used to loan out my moulds. Not after one came back looking like it had been through a rough time - lead spattered inside and out. I told the borrower he had just bought himself a mould and he anted up.
Stored cool and dry. Before use, I use carb cleaner to degrease them. Moulds I've used for 25 years look as good as new.
I used to loan out my moulds. Not after one came back looking like it had been through a rough time - lead spattered inside and out. I told the borrower he had just bought himself a mould and he anted up.
BlackPowderBurner
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- the chesterfield
Hensley Gibbs dot com have a decent article on it. The writer recommends low impact long duration cleaning which is scrubbing it with a plastic bristled brush and dawn dish soap. Having never needed to do this myself I can't say what works best but I'd try the soap first as it can't hurt anything.
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- High River, Alberta
Just got one a few weeks ago that was still filled. Had at least as much rust in the cavities as the outside.
A better idea is empty and a shot of light oil that's easy to clean off the next session.
