S&B .308 180grain?

seamusm

seamusm

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Anyone else shooting S&B .308 180 grain ammo? I'm getting consistent 3/4 of an inch groups at 100m with it and I am no sniper! Shoots just as well as federal 175 grain SMK out of my rem700 5R. For half the price of federal, it can't be beat!
 
At 100 meters. I shoot on the metric range because they have a 40m and 60m target I can sWitch to and shoot with my 22 with changing bays
 
If all you shoot is 100m then by all means save your money and use what you're using. What I was implying was that at long range the difference in bullet quality, b.c., and cartridge uniformity will become very evident between the two.
 
I'll be trying it out at 200 yards this Tuesday and I'll follow up then. As for further, I'll have to wait a while before I can get to a range with longer distances. I admit I'm not the best LR shootter and I can't read wind for s---. But it certainly shoots better then anything else in that price range in my rifle. Anyone else shoot S&B with good results?
 
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Assuming you are shooting 5 ( not 3 ) shot groups 3/4 MOA is not bad for the 5R - some do shoot better but many seem to be consistent 3/4 guns. I almost guarantee that the cheaper ammo will show its flaws out past 300m but if you are restricted to 100 or so then shoot the cheap stuff and get that trigger time in :)

Good luck and enjoy your rifle.
 
I see that P&D lists S&B 147 gr FMJ for $179/200. For the cost of 2 lots of 200 rounds each, you could be reasonably equipped to start rolling your own and have your choice of truly accurate match bullets available from Berger, Hornady, Lapua, Matrix, or Sierra. Any of these bullets can be counted on to produce sub-MOA groups at 100, MOA groups out to 500 or even perhaps 800, and 2 MOA beyond that, from an off the shelf rifle with a decent scope. The most modestly equipped handloader can produce very accurate ammunition if that is his goal. Because factory ammo is made to cycle from all magazine fed rifles, it can never be as accurate as the loads you work up yourself to produce optimum results from your own rifle. Comparing apples to apples, the factory plinking ammo you purchase for $270/200 can be made cheaper with components of similar quality, but that stuff will never shoot with match quality handlaods.
 
I have tried to reload S&B .308 brass after firing factory ammo and they will not fit any of my shell holders and I have Lee, RCBS and Redding. Ditto for their 7 mm Mauser brass (same shell holder by the way). So, their factory ammo maybe a one shot affair. Anyone else has the same problem?
 
When I've come across that, I've been able to modify the shell holder slightly, usually widening the opening with a fine file or a Dremel is enough. A bigger concern is whether or not the brass is boxer or berdan primed, and if boxer, do primer crimps have to be removed before a new primer can be seated.
 
Boomer said:
When I've come across that, I've been able to modify the shell holder slightly, usually widening the opening with a fine file or a Dremel is enough. A bigger concern is whether or not the brass is boxer or berdan primed, and if boxer, do primer crimps have to be removed before a new primer can be seated.
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The S&B brass is Boxer primed and no crimp. I'll try your solution on one shell holder, I was hesitant to attempt it for fear that it would be too sloppy for other brass but shell holders are cheap...
 
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